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Oil Consumption Problem with My Son's R56 Cooper


Rojoires

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Please be patient, since the details are crucial.

I purchased a MY07 R56 1.6 Cooper for my son in June, which had 62,000 miles, and he has been driving it until lately, when he returned to university. He likely travelled over 1600 miles, and I monitored the oil level weekly (he is inept at it), which seemed to remain consistent.

Having sufficient time, I performed an oil and filter change after almost 64,000 miles, using the appropriate 5W30 Fuchs Titan GT1 Flex 23 oil. I have used it for around 200 miles since that time.

The oil level seems to have decreased over that little distance. I have seen it emitting oil, with sporadic bursts of blue smoke visible in the mirrors when accelerating from a crossroads - I did not notice this while my son was driving, but what reason would I have to do so?

Should I go to a 40 oil to see if it alleviates the burning? It may have been the contents of the automobile before.

What is the optimal oil for a 64,000-mile Cooper R56 that consumes 5W30 in practical conditions? Any recommendations would be much appreciated!

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Have the valve stem seals been replaced yet? At this age or mileage, the replacement of the valve stem seals will be necessary. They solidify and begin to leak from all the vehicles. Substantial white smoke will be seen at idle after the engine and exhaust have reached operating temperature. Numerous videos demonstrate how to do it. You must remove the cameras. The majority of individuals substitute the timing chain and the plastic timing chain guide concurrently. A prevalent source of burning oil and/or smoke at idle is a torn PCV valve diaphragm. When the engine is idling, removing the oil fill cap should create a little suction that may be felt if you cover the opening with your palm. If the cap is firmly secured or there is significant suction, it is likely a defective PCV. The valve cover has channels and valves that segregate oil from vapour, necessitating the replacement of the complete valve cover to remove the PCV diaphragm. A new orange rubber diaphragm is available as a Chinese aftermarket component to substitute just that portion of the PCV if it is cracked or perforated.

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I had an individual who previously installed a catch can before I performed a refresh on it. Prior to the refresh, the can accumulated a significant amount of debris; however, after the refresh, he reported little accumulation due to the substantial reduction in crankcase breathing achieved by installing superior piston rings. The catch can only collects debris without addressing the underlying issue.

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those Chinese repair pcv rubbish dont work very well spring rate is wrong on them, trouble with these engines is carbon build up on exhaust valves over time will cause misfires, just better off do the job right in first place refresh it , after they go from using oil to using no oil for extra cost of doing it will save that in cost of oil and cats over year or two, this comes from someone who has for past 10 years always had one in pieces due to the oil burning and chain issues etc, the cheap rocker covers are crap as well on ebay , proved this a few times with cars i have put on dyno that only thing we changed was fitted a good rocker cover , ie genuine or febi or fai where had cooper s cars barely hit 200bhp after made 245bhp due to wrong spring rate on pcv system and bleeding unmetered air in to inlet ,, this also hurts them causes lean running lean will make rings go brittle and snap had a many over the years do this,, all the above is genuine seen this time and time again with the endless mistakes some make when buying parts that are not fit for purpose,

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