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Modifying the power steering solenoid and valve


Mistral

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A previous discussion on the replacement of a power steering pump may have been seen by some individuals. I have successfully installed and configured the system. Hooray, for a distance of around five miles, expressing disappointment.

Based on my observations, it seems that either the rack is malfunctioning or the sps valve, which modulates power steering aid in relation to velocity, is faulty. Considerable assistance is provided during low-speed manoeuvring, but none is available while travelling at speeds of 90mph or 80mph, unless, of course, one is referring to the legal speed limit, officer.

The solenoid/valve was seen, the plastic under tray was removed, and the cover behind it was attempted to be pulled off. The huge Torx bolt was then approached, and an attempt was made to loosen it using a low-cost ALDI T-Bar Torx bit. Unexpectedly, the Torx bit broke. The tool that has been requested is a 1/2" impact drive set of bits, which is expected to arrive today along with the sps valve.

Over the course of the last four months, my CLK has presented several challenges, many of which were not typical issues. I have removed the skirts of the vehicle due to their deteriorated condition and purchased replacements from an online marketplace for £95, ensuring that they matched the original obsidian black hue. I have seen instances when the mirrors descend while reversing but fail to ascend, as well as instances of door locks exhibiting machine gun-like behaviour. However, I was able to resolve the latter issue by acquiring a spring kit from eBay for a nominal price of £6.99. The dealer from whom I made the purchase installed a replacement unit, although leaving behind greasy paw prints, a damaged tweeter cover, as well as deformities in the window channel. Furthermore, all the clips were inadvertently broken during the installation process.

I will now attempt to use an impact gun on the Torx pieces in order to enhance visibility of the solenoid. I had previously attempted to access the solenoid via the wheel arch liner, but no signs of rust were seen, similar to the sills. There is a significant presence of spider webs in the area. Prior to reassembling, it is essential to thoroughly clean all plastic components and coverings.

Please observe this area. My spouse strongly disapproves of my engagement in automotive repair activities. However, use a 3-ton air jack with a compressor set at 8 Bar, in addition to employing six-ton jack stands. I am confident in my ability to cope with the situation; yet, in the event that I am unable to do so, the outcome may be rather unfavourable. Nevertheless, I have experienced a satisfactory duration of time so far.

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I have extensively searched YouTube in an attempt to get instructional videos on the process of fitting this particular component onto an A209 CLK350. Unfortunately, I have not come across any videos that demonstrate the removal of the bottom cover plate, which incidentally caused damage to my Torx bit.

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There seems to be a prevailing consensus in this discussion, nonetheless, I acquired the impact torx bits along with my very inexpensive Ugga Dugga cordless impact rifle. Employing the undo mode, I proceeded to vigorously use the entire force of the fully charged 1/2" drive with a torque of 420Nm underneath the carpet. (On the box?!?). After the passage of five seconds, no discernible auditory stimuli were detected except for the presence of very high decibel levels. Please attempt the alternative method by applying a little amount of penetrating oil on the object and allowing it to sit undisturbed for a duration of one hour.

Upon following the instruction of the 'torque test YouTube channel,' I allocated a duration of 10 seconds to reevaluate the subject matter. However, the outcome was unsatisfactory, as no positive results were obtained. The subject was allowed to reach a lower temperature before proceeding, and thereafter, it was subjected to a duration of 20 seconds on each occasion, followed by an increased duration of 30 seconds. I persisted until a progressively extended duration, at which point I reached the conclusion that my efforts, as well as the capabilities of the disruptive apparatus, had reached their limits.

Now is the opportune moment to use a breaker bar measuring two feet in length. Initially, I had some difficulty as I believed I was causing damage to the torx head, but I managed to successfully loosen it. This marks the completion of one task. In my subsequent attempt, I exerted maximal effort, however it is very improbable for any significant change to occur. Although I did manage to momentarily lose control, I am certain that there remains sufficient substance to regain control. However, the inherent difficulty lies in the near impossibility of avoiding the application of lateral force.

The acquisition of New Ugga Dugga is underway, therefore perpetuating the ongoing narrative. Did George Lucas not make such a statement previously?

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Today, I will present my journal post. I have just acquired a new impact rifle which is labelled with a torque rating of 600 Newton metres (Nm). I am eager to test its performance and ascertain its effectiveness. The force exerted on my wrist by the repetitive pounding of the bolt has become more uncomfortable, suggesting a potential risk of injury. Despite my persistent efforts, the bolt remains unyielding, prompting the need for a more aggressive approach. I attempted to use an air chisel in order to displace the object subsequent to creating a groove in it using an angle grinder. Regrettably, my efforts were futile as no discernible progress was made. At the last stage of escalation, the procedure involves affixing a nut and subsequently a washer onto a designated object, followed by the use of a two-foot breaker bar. However, it should be noted that the nut ultimately fractured and separated from the object.

Contemplating the prospect of severing the brace bar in order to facilitate the extraction of the bolt, or alternatively, severing the head of the bolt and thereafter using drilling techniques to remove it. One option is to use a helicoil by drilling the bolt, while another alternative involves welding the bracing. I have mostly used a stick welder for my welding tasks so far. However, it is possible that I may need to employ a metal inert gas (MIG) welding technique for the brace bar, since it is scheduled to be completed tomorrow, regardless of the welding method employed.

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In the present version, it is recommended to flatten the bolt on the ground, use an automatic centre punch, and proceed with the drilling process, commencing at a diameter of 2mm and gradually increasing it to 8.3mm for the purpose of helicoil drilling. After a considerable amount of time, I believe I may have devised a method to facilitate the process of drilling underneath an automobile. I was really satisfied with the outcome, prompting me to share it on the online video-sharing platform, YouTube, accessible via the following link.

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Significant advancements have been achieved in the development of a novel creation.

image.png.a856adb212afc71887dc9f5762c136d4.png

Consequently, this resulted in the loosening of a single bolt. I attempted an other method to remove the remaining bolt by manoeuvring around the plug. However, because to the excessive curvature and complexity of the plug, I ultimately decided to employ the use of Chanel lock pliers to extract the plug by applying pressure and using a little rocking motion.

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Finally, it was revealed.

The process involved in the creation of the aforementioned tool included revisiting the previous iteration and subjecting it to heat in order to facilitate the desired reshaping. A 4mm Allen bit was used on the end of a 's' hook, which had been affixed to the tool by welding. The resulting form adhered to the specifications outlined in my design. The accompanying visual representation depicts the original appearance of the tool in question.

image.png.64c24722a623b00b310e320efab6681a.png

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It is well acknowledged that there is no logical justification for it to be left-handed. However, it is likely that while reading this article, there may have been a fleeting moment when you experienced surprise or disbelief.

Apologies, I was unable to resist.

In workshop scenarios such as the one you now encounter, it has been consistently said that the use of heat and aggression may prove to be advantageous.

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No, I had successfully removed one of them before and had an enjoyable experience with a wheel bearing nut on a Mini vehicle, although on a singular occasion. The process of acquiring the trackrod ball joint proved to be an enjoyable endeavour. Despite initial attempts using a 5lb club hammer, the desired outcome could not be achieved. Consequently, other methods such as using an air chisel and utilising MAPP gas were explored. It is evident that acquiring the necessary tools for this task is a worthwhile investment. The ball joint splitters that are operated by winding, often known as pickle forks, proved to be ineffective in my recent experience. Specifically, my previous tool failed while attempting to separate a top hub knuckle joint on an MX5, resulting in its fracture into two distinct halves.

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Approximately 25 years ago, an acquisition was made of a certain item, which was used on two occasions and demonstrated flawless functionality. I have refrained from using it due to the consistent provision of business vehicles over a span of 15 years. Additionally, my engagement in other professional responsibilities has precluded me from doing such tasks for an extended duration.

I am considering the possibility of replacing the ball joints on one of the automobiles in the near future, with the intention of maximising the value of my investment, provided that I am able to locate the vehicle.

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The recommendation to utilise eye protection during usage was initially met with scepticism. However, this scepticism was swiftly dispelled when a violent explosion occurred. This incident served as a stark reminder of the importance of eye protection. It is worth noting that my personal adherence to health and safety practises may be lacking, as evidenced by two recent instances of self-inflicted injuries while operating an angle grinder without a protective guard. The absence of a guard is attributed to the incompatibility of the blades with the grinder. While it is conceivable to fabricate a suitable guard, there exists a concern that such an endeavour may inadvertently result in the ignition of the shed.

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This will be my last piece on the matter at hand. The SPS was successfully implemented, but, it did not resolve the issue at hand. Currently, the automobile in question lacks power steering functionality, exhibits no abnormal auditory indications, and is equipped with a relatively recent power-assisted steering (PAS) pump and steering position sensor (SPS) valve/solenoid.

Upon observing the reservoir, I am unable to see any discernible motion of the fluid, leading me to speculate that the pump has malfunctioned. I purchased a replacement pump from the online marketplace eBay subsequent to initiating the return process for the previous pump, which was accompanied by a warranty that ensured a hassle-free return. The individual inadvertently left the malfunctioning pump operational with the intention of using the packing from a subsequent pump to facilitate its return.

There exists a predicament that requires attention.

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Undeterred by the circumstances, and with the intention of validating my suspicions, I proceeded to dismantle the interior components of the old pumps. During this process, I discovered several metallic fragments, which were not mere flakes but rather fragments of the pump's vanes. Additionally, I saw a cracked rubber seal inside the apparatus. Upon careful consideration, it became apparent to me that the reservoir on the new pump must be removed due to its incompatible dimensions. Upon removal, I discovered that there was no spigot present, just a hole of moderate size. Is it possible for the spigot to be screwed into this hole? The old pump was placed into the vice, resulting in fragments of the pump being left on the workbench. Through the use of an adjustable spanner, an attempt was made to disengage the spigot, resulting in its successful detachment. The object was inserted into the new pump using a twisting motion, facilitated by the use of a hammer.

However, a complication arose when the mounting bracket of the new pump did not align with the mounting holes, despite the reservoir being positioned correctly. Furthermore, the pulley attached to the newly installed pump lacked apertures through which one might access the screws securing it. It seems that acquiring a pulley puller may be necessary in this situation. I will proceed to create a perforation in the pulley of sufficient size to facilitate the removal of the Allen head bolt. However, I had a little setback when I mistakenly believed that the hole was enough sized. Consequently, when I attempted to extract the bolt, it became lodged behind the pulley. In response to this predicament, I expressed my frustration via the use of profanity. Subsequently, I enlarged the aperture using a step drill and proceeded to interchange the bracket.

Proceed to the vehicle immediately. Most aspects seemed to align, with the exception of the absence of fasteners on the rear of the pump, hence lacking a suitable location to insert the previously challenging-to-remove bolt. In addition to the aforementioned observations, I had a query regarding the purpose of the electrical connector on the pump. Upon initial removal of the pump, I discovered an unused plug attached to a wire. Subsequently, I ascertained that this plug does not connect to the aforementioned solenoid-like component, which was later identified as a proportioning valve resembling the SPS.

Everything seems to be in order, with the exception of the matter of the establishment of a ground connection. Regrettably, there is a lack of conveniently located threaded holes on the rear side of the pump. There exists a thread that is being inserted into the side of the pump. If I were to shorten one of the available 6mm Allen-headed bolts, it is likely that it would be compatible and fit accordingly.

It was a rather straightforward task until the Allen bolt encountered an obstruction with the high pressure output banjo, preventing it from completely tightening. Consequently, I proceeded to modify the bolt and banjo by using a bench grinder to taper and reduce the thickness of the components. Similarly, I used the same modification technique to the eyelet on the ground wire. I thoroughly cleaned all components and tested their functionality, exhibiting a sense of self-assurance in my proficiency with hydraulic systems, but experiencing a heightened state of anxiety. Nonetheless, the system operated well.

This is the account of how I achieved the prestigious Nobel Prize in the field of mechanical bodgery.

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