carBlacken

After drilling, purify the area and apply paint. The waxoyl/bilt hamber/lanoguard should be reassembled once it has dried.

Annually, just before to storage. The number of miles on the oil is inconsequential; the task is accomplished. This also applies to my Porsche.

Pleasant path

The source of the issue is undoubtedly originating from the engine bay. Although the rear brakes are applying a little amount of pressure.

Indeed, now that you have brought it up, it is very amusing 😂😂 Upon starting the vehicle, I saw that there was no noise. I then proceeded to put the car in gear and released the handbrake. Apply some throttle and the sound becomes audible. Engaging all gears in sequence. The sound remains constant in volume and pitch regardless of the engine's revolutions. However, as soon as I begin my journey, it occurs. When I come to a halt and transition to idle, the engine ceases to function. After covering a distance of several hundred metres, the sound ceases entirely. I will try to get a recording of it tomorrow morning. I appreciate all the replies received so far.

Greetings, everyone. I trust that everyone is in good health. My vehicle has been emitting an unusual noise upon ignition. The sound may be accurately described as a brass trumpet. The pitch remains constant and the issue only occurs when I accelerate to start moving and change gears. Occasionally in the past, there have been brief instances when it occurred, but this time it persisted for a significant distance of several hundred metres. The automobile has about 60,000 kilometres and a complete record of all maintenance and repairs. Thank you in advance.

Excellent! Thank you for your assistance.

I'm pleased that you resolved your issue. Thank you, it's a cost-effective solution, however my technician has informed me that a new relay would cost about £70. May I know the brand of the relay you purchased?

Did you install a new relay? Has it resolved the issue?

I own a 2000 E46 325i. While driving last year, my windscreen wipers unexpectedly stopped functioning. Luckily, it was just drizzling, so I was able to get it home. When I drove the vehicle again, the wipers functioned well and continued to do so for around 10 months. It occurred again and has evolved into a wholly arbitrary image. They may function properly without any issues, but then they start to malfunction. I parked the vehicle, checked the wipers a few times, they worked well. However, when I tried to use them again later, they didn't operate for weeks. Replaced the motor with a second-hand BMW component that has been tested. Despite the mechanic's statement that the car's features were not functioning, they were operational as I drove away. I have changed the wiper stalk. The relay was inspected and cleaned, but it only functioned briefly before failing while driving in the rain. It resumed working a few minutes later. The vehicle was sent to a mechanic where it has remained for a week. The wipers have been tested daily and are functioning properly each time. The washer spray consistently functions well. I have a tight budget and cannot afford to spend money replacing components without solving the problem. Can someone kindly assist me? I am feeling quite frustrated. Is it feasible to install an additional switch on the dashboard to ensure the wipers are functional in my car?

Consider removing the snap ring off the second-hand shaft and attempting to insert it fully into the hub. If it does not fit, it might indicate an incorrect hub or components.

They are not oriented in a certain direction. You are on the correct path - it is only a matter of how you exert effort to properly position the snap ring in its groove. Insert the shaft partially and then apply strong pressure. The momentum of the free play might cause it to settle. Or else. Use a rope or strap to fasten one side of the hub to the chassis and use a baton for leverage on the other side. Instead of a baton, a rope tourniquet. If you apply force using those approaches, it should fit in smoothly without needing to be hammered. If you can strike with a hammer without the force going through the CV joint, then just do so. Be persistent - sometimes they need a significant amount of force to be properly seated.

Yes, there is an interior groove designed for the snap ring.

Due to the recent hot weather, with temperatures in the late 20s, I need to use the air conditioning on a low setting. The fans are making a loud noise. Inside the automobile, everything is tranquil and silent, yet outside, it resembles a jet aircraft getting ready for takeoff.

The issue is within the canbus systems, which consist of several linked control units. One such device is the ambient light sensor located in the overhead light cluster. This sensor may impact the inside lighting, but it may not have any influence on the cluster illumination. Aside from the primary fuse box, there could also be a secondary or passenger fuse box. This auxiliary fuse box, located at the end of the dashboard or behind the passenger footwell kick plate, houses fuse 42, which provides power to the cluster. If the system in question is a canbus system, obtaining a failure code readout might potentially be beneficial.

The electrical components of the W202 had a thorough overhaul during the 97-98 facelift. As previously mentioned by TED, the instrument cluster lighting rheostat, also known as the dimmer, used to be integrated into the odometer knob in the former design. However, it has now been replaced with two tiny buttons located on the left-hand side of the cluster assembly. This change is documented on page 4, item 12 of the graphic. Regrettably, this implies that it is included into the primary cluster PCB and may provide difficulties in replacing it in case of malfunction. The link provided leads to a PDF file of the 1999 C280 owner's manual on the website "benzworld.org".

Stix Car Hire at Faro airport declined to rent a high-end, high-performance Mercedes to a driver due to their policy that prohibits anybody under the age of 30 from operating such a powerful vehicle. They offered a premium Mercedes with a less powerful engine, demonstrating their helpfulness. The driver that rejected was Max Verstappen. A representative from Stix expressed regret, acknowledging that "there are instances when rules should have been more lenient, and this may be one of those instances!" In my opinion, this was a situation when it is justifiable for someone to assert their identity by stating "don't you know who I am?".

Regrettably, that is not the case. A new one has been equipped with the HP pump.

And it is valued.

Dear friend, I lack expertise in MB, MLs, diesels, High Pressure Fuel pumps, and Schroder Valves. I have sought guidance here and I am only reiterating my existing knowledge.

The outcome will prove to be quite evident.

This morning, I informed them about the injector leak. I was informed that the pressure at the gasoline filter was satisfactory, thus I disregarded the possibility of a malfunctioning tank pump. However, I will still make a note of this information. Thank you.

Indeed, it is a 164.

Prior to Christmas, the AA service arrived and affixed a scanner to the vehicle, diagnosing the issue as either the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) or the High-Pressure (HP) pump. I substituted it, but it failed to initiate. Due to the absence of a fuel pressure gauge, I have taken the initiative to send it to a specialised Mercedes-Benz service. The fuel pressure was assessed and found to be significantly low at the high-pressure pump. Thus, it was substituted. Despite the previous attempt being unsuccessful, they proceeded to replace the crank sensor, since it is known to be a potential cause of engine failure to start. However, the issue persisted and the engine still did not start. That is the extent to which it progressed.

Insufficient pressure/fuel is present.