ML350_Colin

According to my understanding, springs should be installed with the component number facing upwards, allowing it to be easily seen when attached to the strut. Is it not difficult?

There is no need to engage in rude behaviour, gentlemen. John N exhibits the classic characteristics of an Englishman. I see individuals of this kind on a regular basis in London.

We are capable of reading the electronic control unit (ECU) on any Mercedes-Benz (MB) model, but the degree of difficulty may vary. However, it seems that our location is not convenient for the user (op).

It is important to note that the E-class convertible, known as the Mercedes designation A207, was actually built on the C-class platform, rather than the real E-class W212.

I seem to remember that smoke silver has a colour that is more akin to gold rather than silver. Does gold provide as many challenges for mixing as silver?

Yes. As it ought to be

Thank you, friend. Another brief task. The interior lights fail to illuminate at night upon key removal, contrary to their former behaviour.

While driving, the car's voltage display indicates a reading of 14.2 volts.

I have had the motor for around four years. The battery underwent testing during the replacement of the alternator around 6 months ago. I will have the voltages inspected as you have suggested. Thank you.

Greetings. Lately, I have been experiencing unusual occurrences with my 2007 S211 E320 V6 Cdi. There is a malfunction with the electrical system. At first, the dash cam I installed began to sporadically activate and deactivate. The connection is permanently installed in the rear cigarette lighter socket. Subsequently, the fan responsible for both the heater and air conditioning sometimes ceases and resumes operation at its own discretion. It is mostly effective. In recent days, I have noticed that the right parking sensor activates and the dashboard sensor lights illuminate while I am driving, even when there are no obstacles around. Do you have any ideas? Thank you in advance.

The C mode is equivalent to the W mode, and it begins in second gear.

Are you currently operating in W mode? Initiating motion in the second gear results in less creep. If you are experiencing the additional issue of dragging brakes, in is possible that the combination of these two factors is causing the problem. In S mode, the creep effect should be intensified, although with a reduced maximum creep speed.

My suggestion is to refrain from driving it any longer. Refrain from initiating the process and disregard the idea of engaging with the authorised dealer unless you possess substantial wealth. Locate a reputable automotive repair shop that has received favourable evaluations. An adept technician might swiftly detect this issue. In order to inspect the metal components in the oil pickup, it would be necessary to remove the sump. During this process, it would also be possible to examine the lower section, including the crankshaft, connecting rods, main bearings, and cylinder walls. If the issue does not pertain to the lower end, then it is probable that the problem is in the upper end, such as the camshaft, cam bearings, or followers. Substituting such components should not incur costs anything close to those of purchasing a brand new or previously used engine. It is important to anticipate and prepare for the worst-case situation, but I believe it is rare that it would result in a complete loss. Activating the engine, however, might determine whether the object can be repaired or whether it would be irreparably damaged. After locating a garage, make arrangements to have the automobile transported there either by towing or on a flatbed truck. Most reputable garages will likely resolve this issue for you as well. Wishing you the best of fortune in resolving the issue, I hope it proves to be a straightforward fix.

Thank you for the guidance, I will make an effort to gather as much information as I can. I have previously completed the DVLA MOT verification...I have not seen any conspicuous indicators of concern based on my assessment. However, I want to pay the six pounds for the AA car inspection beforehand, prior to interrogating the seller during my visit tomorrow. I am grateful for your effort in providing a response. Cheers

Thank you. Similar to you, I have many motivations for desiring a Vito, however I am willing to consider other brands as well. I am now evaluating the advantages and disadvantages and actively seeking and considering various recommendations. Thank you for providing yours!

Indeed, at first inspection, the cost for a reconstructed engine would amount to around 2,000 units. I will do more investigation. Thank you!

Thank you for your response. Considering my little expertise, I am contemplating the idea of having it examined prior to purchasing, in the hopes that it may aid in making a choice. Furthermore, if anybody has any recommendations about a reliable inspection service provider, it would be much appreciated (since the cost of AA's services is rather high, perhaps resulting in the rejection of the car). I express my gratitude one again.

Greetings to everybody, I hope that you are all in good health. I am a newcomer to this platform and I am eager to gain insights and knowledge from people that possess a wealth of wisdom and experience in this particular field, since I myself lack substantial expertise in this area. I am now looking to purchase a Vito crew van and have come across one that meets most of my requirements, however it has accumulated a significant amount of miles. The vehicle is registered with a '14' licence plate and has accumulated a mileage of 280,000. Given the constraints of my budget, I would be compelled to choose between a vehicle of this kind or an older model with perhaps reduced mileage. I am aware that some individuals claim that Vitos tend to be long-winded, and personally, I would not be using it for extensive travel. I am curious to know people's opinions on whether older vehicles or newer vehicles with high mileage are considered superior. Any further general comments or observations would be very welcomed, given my knowledge with Vitos or motors in general is limited. I am now in the process of obtaining insurance quotes and have encountered some alarming outcomes. Therefore, I would really appreciate any advice pertaining to this matter. Thank you in advance

You have misconstrued my statement. Locate a suitable location where you can drive at a speed of 70 miles per hour and use maximum force on the brake pedal, without exceeding your comfort level. Repeat this action. Determine whether that has an impact.

Have you attempted a series of forceful deceleration manoeuvres while travelling at high velocity? If you want to do so, ensure your safety by maintaining constant vigilance via your rearview mirror and avoiding a full cessation of movement.

Regarding the heating of aerosol cans in water I often engage in activities such as paint spraying and similar tasks. Merely immersing the cans in hot water from the faucet in the sink for a duration of 5 minutes is sufficient to decrease the thickness of the paint or substance being sprayed, as well as somewhat elevate the pressure inside the can. By doing so, you may get a far superior spray. This becomes more significant when the can becomes empty and the pressure naturally decreases. There is no possibility of causing the can to explode, and so forth. However, it is advisable to prevent any contact between water and the cap. I have discovered that ACF50, which exhibits high viscosity and stickiness at low temperatures, is quite advantageous. If the temperature is too low, the substance from the spray can may be emitted in a concentrated flow rather than a dispersed spray.

In addition to my fondness for Mercedes-Benz vehicles, I am a devoted enthusiast of Alfa Romeo cars, and thus, I am well acquainted with Dinitrol. In my opinion, these products demonstrate exceptional efficacy. Additionally, it would be prudent to take into account the potential benefits of using ACF50. For many years, I kept my Ducati motorcycle outside at my previous residence, and the use of ACF50 effectively prevented any rust from occurring. If you want to use either product, it is advisable to heat the cans in hot water before to use, since the consistency of the items can be fairly thick.

During my conversation with the paint business, they were unaware of the underlying reason, although they did mention that the issue mostly affects vehicles painted in Fire Opal Red.

Fire Opal Red micro-blistering is a prevalent issue. Previously, MB provided a warranty-covered service for repainting the afflicted sections with a bare metal finish. Numerous discussions about this topic may be found on both this forum and other online platforms. In 2017, our 2015 C-Class coupe (C204) had the same issue and was being resolved when we made the decision to exchange it for the C-Class estate (S205) that we now own. The S205 is painted in Designo Hyacinth Red Metallic and does not have any blisters. Best wishes, I hope you are able to resolve the issue successfully?

Merely MB, I see. Could you provide information on the entity responsible for oil production, since it is evident that MB does not play a significant role in this industry?