MrGreedy

Thank you both; I greatly appreciate that, my friend.

Delightful! Is it possible to modify the graphic to depict an actual C-HR?

Impressive! Best of luck with this, as it appears quite technical and may require an expert to resolve.

Additionally, here is the video.

I will attempt it and provide you with updates.

From the bottom of the engine? Is it only when the temperature is warm?

I have not yet inspected it; I need to elevate it up the ramp for examination. However, it is likely that this would produce a rattling noise at startup, correct? Is it not when the engine is warm?

I am seeking assistance from anyone who can provide help. I possess a 2006 E90 M47 that produces a ticking noise when the vehicle reaches optimal temperatures. A few months ago, I operated my vehicle with low oil pressure, and a friend suggested that I might have caused low-end knock. However, after changing the oil and filter, we did not observe any metallic particles in the filter. Additionally, we placed four strong magnets underneath the oil during drainage and found no metal shavings. The ticking noise did not entirely correlate with the engine revs, leading us to conclude that it was due to chain slap. The vehicle just underwent maintenance, including the replacement of the timing chain, tensioner, water pump, steering pump, auxiliary belt, and all gaskets, approximately two weeks ago at a mileage of 165,000. However, the noise persists. We have also eliminated lifter tick, as it is only audible from the bottom of the engine, predominantly on the driver's side, and cannot be detected with the hood open. I have included a link to my YouTube video at the end of this post. Thank you for your assistance; I recently spent £2,000 to eliminate this sound and was informed by the garage that it was chain slap, which is quite frustrating. To be fair, the car drives well and accelerates smoothly, but I detest this noise. The most accurate description of the ticking sound is that, while idling, it produces a characteristic diesel tractor "duhduhduh" noise, with the ticking occurring in varying rhythms such as "tick.......tick tick......tick tick tick tick.............tick." However, upon revving the engine, the ticking sound synchronises with the vehicle's operation.

Fuel efficiency of my Sportage PHEV

What an abysmal bot!

Thank you for your response, TDudette. Following your feedback, I began to research the timing subsequent to the flywheel replacement. I encountered the following: “After substituting the flywheel on a B38 engine, it is imperative to execute a re-adaptation procedure utilising a diagnostic tool such as” INPA to verify that the engine control unit (DME) accurately interprets the new component. This is essential as a new flywheel possesses distinct rotational mass properties, necessitating a reset of the engine's adaptive software to avert complications such as vibrations or suboptimal performance. The adaptation process entails the removal of outdated trims and a designated driving test to recalibrate the engine's settings for the new flywheel. Is it possible that the vehicle merely requires flywheel adaptations through INPA or alternative software? The flywheel is substituted with a new original component bearing the same part number.

I hope someone here can assist me. I possess a 2014 Mini Cooper (engine code B38A15A) with 150 kilometres on the odometer. The clutch and flywheel have been replaced. Subsequently, the vehicle began displaying fault code P0301. The fuel supply to stroke 1 will be terminated, and the vehicle will operate on a two-stroke engine. I am unable to determine how to remedy this issue. I have already substituted the spark plugs and coils without success. Is it possible that a sensor is present in some location? Does anyone possess any suggestions?

Honestly, I would not undertake any endeavour if it were not facile, and it was indeed facile. Routing the wire beneath the screen's rubber, through the spaces surrounding the glove box and along the carpet of the centre console was effortless. The rear was even simpler; attempt it, and you will observe.

I owned a MY20 Evoque, in which I had Halfords install a Nextbase front and back camera system. It was previously installed in a Jaguar F-Pace (also fitted by Halfords) without any complications. Shortly after the refurbishment, it began to disrupt the electrical systems. Returned to H's, where it was inspected; aside from a different individual attaching it to an alternate fuse point, he confirmed that it had been executed correctly. The issues persisted, so I consulted an independent RR specialist for evaluation. They elucidated the nature of CAN buses and its potential temperamental issues, suggesting that it should be removed. I complied, and all reverted to normalcy. I still desired a form of recording, so I decided to connect it to the 12v accessory ports. It was exceedingly simple to route the cable from the rear via the pillars and rubber, and likewise, the rear was connected to the 12v plug in the trunk. Both were really effective. No visible wires; installation is exceedingly simple. Did not wish to navigate via the headlining, among other components. Both devices deactivate when the ignition is turned off, unless the parking mode is activated on the front unit. No problems. Attempt that.