alpaco45

Apologies, but I must express that this issue caused significant distress for me as well. The overall cost of the repair amounted to $4,000. I purchased a transmission from a salvage yard and just used the mechatronic unit and transmission control unit (TCU). Disposed of the remaining portion. The user's text, "LOL," can be rewritten as "The user expressed amusement

The phenomenon under consideration is programming. The original Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is rejecting it. It is necessary to extract the TCU (Transmission Control Unit) and perform a bench virginization procedure. I had a same issue. Specialized software is required in order to perform the process of reverting a program to its original state, sometimes referred to as "virginizing," and completely erasing all remnants of the previous program.

Is the gearbox capable of engaging the drive mode and other gears, resulting in the movement of the automobile, or does it remain immobilized in the park position?

When discussing the concept of changing the gearbox, are you specifically referring to the process of replacing the transmission, together with the mechatronic unit, with those obtained from another vehicle, as is often used in the United States? If this is the case, the issue arises from a discrepancy between the Transmission Control Unit (TCU) installed in the mechatronic unit and the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) associated with the automobile. Consequently, the TCU must undergo a process of virginization, which involves erasing all existing data, followed by reprogramming the TCU with the correct original VIN information.

Do you encounter a similar issue?

Have you successfully identified the underlying problem? I am encountering a similar issue.

Excellent, have a pleasant trip.

Is the garage trying to wash its hands of any blame? The fact that you paid in cash is no excuse for the subpar job that was done for you. If they refuse to cooperate, I will escalate the situation.

In excellent shape Why did we have to do a complete engine rebuild?

In March, while on business in Halifax, Nova Scotia, I had a free afternoon. I drove the rental vehicle down the coast and stopped at Peggy's Cove, made famous by the show. Amazing scenery, a couple of hours of driving time, and plenty of winding up and down road made me wish I'd brought my TR6. Oh, and I'm going to check out the new Rover site myself, so best of luck with that!

There is a lot of confusion about auto box maintenance. Some experts recommend changing the oil and filter at certain mileage intervals (50, 75, or 100k), while others urge to wait until the vehicle shows indications of sluggishness before making any adjustments. My mechanic claimed he didn't see any need to change the oil and filter on my 320d ZF6 till it hit 82k miles. The vehicle was in excellent condition when I sold it at 88,000 miles.

Since purchasing my first automatic box some years ago, I've been a convert. I, too, have arthritis pain in my left knee and was a heavy driver at the time. I just purchased a 2012 E92 320d (with the older ZF6) and I am really pleased with it. The 440i F32 I drove featured the fantastic ZF8 transmission. The manual vs. automatic discussion is completely different now that we have better mapping and gearbox design. Vehicle models are often more rapid, silky, and frugal.

Mine is in utter disrepair now. Not able to discover any more references to it online. The component number you provided saved my bacon.

We have nice information here. Brushing in diluted Milton fluid and washing it off removes any little buildup of algae off the top of my cab. Then, to give the rain and water a fantastic beading appearance and richer color, I use Fabsil gold. The same method is used to remove the algae from the window rubbers. Will give the vinegar a shot on the rubbers however.

If you own an Audi, what do you believe the best wheel cleaner is for aluminum wheels?

No cleaning agents, just wet and dry microfiber cloths.

If everything is working regularly now, your reset has either corrected it for the time being or it has stopped being defective for the time being. Regarding the error code in question, one may find a wealth of information on Google. I despise the fact that there are intermittent electrical failures... Best of luck.

Thanks Motoman, That makes perfect sense after all. Still, it's a shame.

I have the app, and my VIN has been registered, and I paid for the Guard 360 believing that it would give me the tracker, geofencing, and vehicle locate; however, these features have been disabled, and when I click to buy it all links to the navigation package. There is nothing in the product description to indicate that it offers anything other than live traffic information, and it also makes the claim that I will never be stopped in traffic again......... Does anybody have any idea whether or not this will contain the information I require?

Hi ,jimmy47785 According to the construction sheet, the vehicle is furnished with COMMAND APS 531 NTG5/NTG5.5 COMMAND Would that be of any use?

Adaptor? Didn't need one for the A45, and if this feature is going to be discontinued, how, if at all, are you supposed to utilize the service on an earlier model?

I have the guard 360, which, for the 2015 E class, is used to report a stolen car. I'm sure that somewhere in the product description it claimed to track and locate, but it doesn't seem to be doing either of those things. Is there a box that has to be checked anywhere on the NTG for the vehicle to be linked?

Hello everyone, I have a brief question about the W212 E Class late 2015 cars and whether or not they operate with the Mercedes Me app's vehicle locating feature. It used to function on my 1965-vintage A45, but I'm having trouble getting it to connect on the E63.

Currently, I cannot make up my mind. I've always like black automobiles, so that's the colour I've been giving the most thought to. It's also lovely in that dark blue hue. As the time comes for me to make a purchase, I will have more clarity.

What you have discovered (a three-inch metallic cylinder with wires on each end?) is the ballast resistor for dim-dip headlamps. Examine the positive coil terminal. If it is ballasted and authentic, there will be two conductors. One pink/white conductor that IS the ballast (the resistive wire). The opposite is yellow/white. The ignition circuit must have a total resistance of approximately 3 ohms; otherwise, the distributor points have a tendency to vaporise. Either a 3 ohm coil with no ballast (white wire) or a 1.5 ohm coil with a ballast. Coils may be marked either 12v for unballasted or Ballast or 9v for, um, ballasted.