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Numerous friction material residues were present at the base of the pan; however, the mechanic who replaced my ATF and filter noted that the interior of the gearbox appeared fairly pristine.

The ATF level is accurate and has been verified. The technician who performed the most recent examination of the vehicle informed me that there is certainly an issue with the valve body, and it is highly probable that the clutch packs are also exhibiting wear. This remains a hypothesis, as the vehicle has yet to undergo real-time data diagnostics; however, based on the observed symptoms, numerous individuals have indicated that fixing this gearbox might not be financially viable.

The gearbox exhibited this problem prior to the fluid replacement. I utilised authentic Mercedes ATF and fitted a completely new genuine Mercedes connector plug. The antiquated plug contained gearbox fluid. Furthermore, the gearbox pan utilised bolts that differed from the original equipment manufacturer, and the drain bolt was stripped — evidently, an unskilled individual had previously serviced the gearbox prior to my acquisition of the vehicle. I have possessed the vehicle for approximately one year.

When did the issues commence? Should the ATF change occur prior to or subsequent to this? What is a reliable and esteemed oil brand utilised? Is the oil level verified twice? Is the TCU and connector plug devoid of oil?

Greetings to all, I require guidance concerning the gearbox of my E270 CDI. Herein lies a comprehensive account of the problem along with supplementary information that may prove beneficial. Vehicle Identification Number: WDB2110161A309273 The issue at hand: When the transmission is cold, the 1–2 shift can occasionally be quite abrupt and occurs rather early, approximately at 1600–1700 RPM. Nevertheless, upon the gearbox reaching temperatures of approximately 80–90°C, I encounter a distinct issue between the 2nd and 3rd gears. As the vehicle nears 2000 RPM, the RPM begins to surge autonomously, suggesting a potential loss of hydraulic pressure or slippage in the gearbox, even in the absence of further throttle application. The RPM experiences a minor increase and oscillates for approximately 2–3 seconds before the gear ultimately engages. It appears that the gearbox is unable to maintain pressure or execute a seamless 2–3 shift until it "engages" and finalises the transition. The ATF was substituted 500 kilometres prior, along with a new filter and connector plug. My inquiries: Should I disassemble the gearbox to examine the valve body or clutch packs, or would it be more prudent to seek a quality pre-owned 722.640 unit? What transmissions are compatible with my vehicle? Is my vehicle exclusively compatible with the 722.640 gearbox from the 2.7 CDI? Are transmissions from alternative engines (2.2 CDI, 3.2 CDI, petrol engines) compatible? If they are physically compatible, are they also compatible in terms of electronics and hydraulics? Any guidance or insights would be immensely valued. I appreciate your assistance beforehand!

No issue, although I may need to withdraw that assertion. The Bentley is equipped with two batteries of identical dimensions, thus charging them simultaneously in parallel is acceptable. I am uncertain whether the same principle holds for batteries of varying sizes. I appreciate your revisiting the matter, as it allowed me to reflect further on it.

I appreciate your contribution. Although both the starter and auxiliary batteries in my vehicle are relatively new, as a retired mechanical engineer with ample time at my disposal, I would be grateful if you could share the specifics of your actions regarding your Bentley. Although I value Diesel Benz's arguments, an idle battery ought to consistently receive the enhanced voltage 'stimulus' that contemporary intelligent chargers offer to maintain optimal condition.

This is effective for you as you possess the requisite knowledge. I would not recommend this without additional direction and a comprehensive list of cautions. What is the rationale for charging both batteries using a single charger? The starter battery (in an R230 or a vehicle with comparable batteries) experiences no external load (while stationary) and can endure an extended period without recharging. The consumer battery powers the operational components and may require upkeep if the vehicle is stationary for an extended period. Provided everything is satisfactory, a duration of three weeks should pose no issues, whereas an extended timeframe would.

You ought to be capable of charging both batteries using a single charger if you understand how to connect a few wires in parallel. I intend to execute this on a Bentley I possess that contains two batteries in the trunk.

I greatly appreciate your reply. I utilised the eyelet connector provided with the CTEK, and with this configuration, I inferred that ideally, any power surges are mitigated by the battery's internal resistance; this may not hold true for power sourced through the OBD port. I appreciate the information regarding the MagCode PowerClip.

https://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/magcode-powerclip-ctek-powerport-cover-pwr-lead-12v

I initially overlooked this discussion. You made the correct decision; supplying power to the vehicle through the OBDII port is feasible but perilous and may harm the car. Did you utilise the eyelet connector for your CTEK? If not, they merit adjustment. Moreover, utilising a Magcode Powerclip facilitates the most efficient and effortless battery charging process. Standard equipment on luxury vehicles.

Ultimately, I experienced hesitation about supplying power to the SL55 through the OBD port. I opted for a CTEK MXS 5.0 charger and utilised the provided connector to maintain the AGM auxiliary battery's charge on a 'as needed' basis, as the charger operates automatically. Detaching the charger prior to using the vehicle is uncomplicated, and thus far, I have encountered no warning indicators or error notifications related to a depleting auxiliary battery. I trust this will assist those who sporadically utilise their vehicles.

My sole ownership 1998 E300 has recently been accompanied by a 2002 SL55. Although maintaining the E300's battery charge is uncomplicated, I would appreciate guidance on how to keep the SL55's auxiliary battery charged. My current observation indicates that it seems to release in roughly three weeks. Preferably, I wish to maintain the auxiliary battery connected and merely attach a charger to ensure it remains topped up or fully charged, thereby preventing error messages when I operate the vehicle. Is this feasible? If that is the case, I would be grateful for information regarding chargers deemed appropriate. Alternatively, should I contemplate detaching the auxiliary battery and subsequently linking it to my charger in AGM mode (I suspect the auxiliary battery is an AGM type) while supplying power to the vehicle through the OBD port? I greatly appreciate it.

Has the inlet and vacuum system undergone smoke testing to identify leaks prior to deciding on part replacements? Are there any error codes present?

It is a 2014 525d with an N47 engine; I have had a new intake manifold installed at the garage, which has improved performance significantly, yet there remains a minor power loss intermittently at motorway speeds along with a slight vibration.

However, I must note that I have not encountered an F10 with a damaged clip that allows the pipe to shift sufficiently to prevent sealing, so I surmise that the issue may originate from another source. EGR malfunction or leakage in another location, such as at the swirl flaps. What type of engine is it?

If it permits unrestricted airflow, then yes, it would. Insert a self-tapping screw to secure the pipe. Upon reflection, the maf is positioned downstream, thus it will be exposed to unfiltered air rather than unmetered air if that pipe is removed.

Hello, would a minor disconnection of the air intake pipe caused by a broken holding clip result in a decrease in power and a slight vibration at highway speeds?

This exhibits all the indications of residual air in the system; what method are you employing to bleed it?

For what it's worth, it appears to me to be predominantly a clutch problem. Engaging the clutch pedal yields a marginal impact, which strongly indicates a hydraulic issue (potentially sparing you the time and effort of gearbox removal). Have you inspected the slave cylinder, which is relatively accessible compared to the gearbox?

If it is the concentric bearing, a fluid leak should be observable at the base of the bell housing; thus, if it is dry, the issue pertains to the clutch, necessitating the removal of the gearbox for thorough inspection.

I appreciate your response. Inspected the entire hydraulic line and found it completely dry. I suspect it may be an internal issue, possibly involving one of the cylinders, the clutch plate, or perhaps a bearing.

I appreciate your response. I will attempt to replace the brake fluid and re-bleed the system.

Is there any liquid present on the floor behind the clutch pedal? It may be beneficial to inspect behind the pedal to determine if it is damp.