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Sounds like a lead sparking out or an earth leak, which might cause a short. In the dead of night, inspect the engine leads for the presence of blue sparks earthing.

My 1.4 Fiesta no longer has a terrible idle after I filled up with E5 petrol. Using the higher octane has made my engine run more smoothly at any speed.

Hello there, I appreciate you providing that data to me. Once I have the data, I will text you back, but first I need to get an obd2 connector that works with Forscan.

I performed several tests in Forscan, alright. Idle rpm ranges from 690 to 705 rpm, spark advancement deviation is low, and both the short-term and long-term fuel trim are good. The short-term trim ranges from -4% to 2%, and the long-term trim is nearly consistent at 10%. Now my only remaining suspicions are that the vibration could be caused by a faulty engine mount and that the lights could be an electrical issue. I would be grateful for any suggestions or assistance, despite

Without a doubt, I concur. In order to help you figure out what's wrong and how to fix it, on-board diagnostics systems are available. They remove all room for uncertainty.

The rev counter is going to be muffled to compensate for some volatility in the revs, so you can't rely on it. Find out what the real revs are with the use of an on-board diagnostic information (OBDII) device. Incorporate the Forscan app or software into your purchase. Follow the on-board diagnostics, a meter connected to the battery, an on-board diagnostics and information system (OBDII) tool, or a meter located in the car's electrical outlets to complete the test. Take every test.

As the technician was supposed to do, check the battery's condition and the earthing strap underneath the battery.

Greetings, all! Even with the engine warmed up to operating temperature, my 2003 1.8L Mondeo starts shaking when I let it idle. Up until the rpms return, a little pressure on the gas pedal gets it going again. It is said that the idling rpm is fine as it stays at 750 and doesn't fluctuate. Another thing I noticed is that when the engine is not revving (around 1000-1100), all of the lights—cabin, dashboard, and headlights—flicker. I was worried about the alternator, but the mechanic assured me that everything is OK. Your assistance is much valued.

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You might be OK if they're already droopy. However, when you squeeze the bag, you'may' be resisting pressure. Seems like there's a way to open the air unit's valve with a PP9 volt batteries. Surprisingly, the man failed to bring up polarity. I only have two pins, but he was performing it on a three-pin version. Insignificant detail. Both deflating at the same time suggests that the valve block is likely to pass. Out of the blue, mine dropped. They are both over 16 years old, so I decided to replace them.

Thank you for the detailed explanation; I found it both easy to understand and useful. Leave mine alone, and the bags will deflate, which is both good and harmful.

I was really confused till you retrieved it. I was apprehensive about disconnecting the air supply line while the bag was still under pressure. I was wrong to be, though. After removing it, I deflated using the diagnostics. With the tire removed and the bottom bolt of the bag removed, I was able to hear the o/s bag hiss as I deflated it with the jack. To activate it, you must continuously press the F3 key. The PC was in the driver's seat, so I couldn't hear anything from the n/s. However, it's likely that they were too far away. After taking the electrical plug out and removing the bolt at the wheel hub of the rear arm, which allowed it to be pulled lower, the bag could be manoeuvred to come out by lifting it off the arm and guiding it to the back. It may be helpful to loosen the bolt at the base of the damper and pull it out to create an additional inch or two of clearance. Although it is not necessary. The new Arnott A-2726 (both units are the same) is easy to install in my instance. There are diagnostic functions that can inflate, but it is not immediately clear if this is having any effect. So I put it on wheels and went for a drive. Until the level sensors were filled to the exact mark, proceed slowly. I will make sure it no longer leaks by monitoring it overnight. There is no functionality in iCarsoft V2 for this. A more suitable setup was at my disposal.

How were the results? This summer, I have this task to complete. Understood, the diagnostic procedure does really relieve pressure from the valve.

In anticipation of a rainstorm, the vehicle has been perched on sticks for several days. Does the diagnostics permit the release of this pressure through the valve for the first and leaking bag, which is still under pressure?

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How does the new set of cam rings that BMW offers compare to the previous ones?

Each camshaft requires two genuine BMW parts, and you can only get them from an authorised BMW dealer. One day after receiving them, immerse them in motor oil. Changing them is a breeze; simply remove the old ones using a pick, apply oil to the cam ends, then carefully push the rectangs into place using a plastic pry.

What is the process for altering the rectangles? I might as well do the new Vanos gears since I'm going to use them anyway.

I'm grateful for the update, kk. Your double-checking and confirmation that the timing is perfect is greatly appreciated (y) Your utilisation of high-quality parts is commendable. Since you neglected to replace the vanos sprockets and the rectang rings (gaskets) at the cam ends, I'm wondering if that's the source of your issue. The replacement chain's lifespan will be diminished due to the old sprockets wearing it down rapidly. Without checking the real-time data, I'd venture to say that the sprockets are Maxwell-worn and the rectangs are past their sell-by dates. Examine the desired and actual cam locations to determine the extent of the disparity if you are unable to obtain a more advanced scan tool. You may use that information to identify the sprockets and rectangs.

I replaced the tensioner and guides on the fake timing chain, but I left the cam sprockets alone. Since I recently purchased a regular chain kit. Before I started working on the engine, I never had these codes. Even though the engine only required a new head gasket, I decided to change the chain nevertheless. After double-checking the timing, I can confirm that both cams are in sync when the crank is locked and the locking tools for the camshaft are exactly aligned. The engine had to run for some time before this inspection could be done. I installed two Febi Vanos sensors.

Was the TC a complete FAI or OEM BMW kit that came with all the necessary guides and a new tensioner? The solenoids must be of the BMW or Pierburg variety. Just wanted to give you a heads up that most of the material you see on the internet is crap and won't work, so there's no need to worry about whether they were or weren't. It seems that out-of-timing problems are prevalent in these codes. To be quite honest, I think 180 psi is a little low for a turbo; it should be closer to 200 psi.

The 2014 MINI Cooper S R60 Countryman N18 Greetings everyone, These engine codes are giving me trouble right now. 2C58 - Control of charging pressure: Turn off as a result The angle offset with respect to the crankshaft outside tolerance is 2DA0 for the intake camshaft. Angle offset with respect to the crankshaft outside tolerance (2DA2)—exhaust camshaft The codes are cleared. I get no problems when the engine is idling or revved up to 2500 rpm, but as soon as I start driving and take off the gas, the trouble codes start popping up again. A new turbo, head gasket, valve stem seals, timing chain, and two new Vanos solenoids were recently installed on the vehicle. The timing and tool alignment have been double-checked. Changes to Vanos have been rolled back. Compression on each cylinder is around 180 psi, which is good for the engine. If you could assist, I would greatly appreciate it.

Am I missing something? What year is your car? The new facelift model, which will be available in September of this year, features a head-up display. No, the original version doesn't feature the boomerang headlights.

Oops, my bad. Responded to the incorrect message 🙄

The MY26 facelift model is what I said.