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Haha, I just realised the ix1; my apologies. I possess no knowledge regarding electric vehicles; I break out in a rash when I approach one, haha.

Greetings, it is entirely electric. Thirty-one thousand. Possessed it for three years.

What mileage does petrol diesel achieve? Is the clicking noise originating from the engine or the front differential, particularly when turning?

The BMW iX1 is producing a ticking or rotating noise when I engage the accelerator, particularly at reduced speeds. There is no indication light, and it appears to become noisier with extended usage. Does not influence the operation or efficiency. Has anyone encountered a comparable problem with any electric model? Do you have any suggestions regarding what it might be?

Indeed, it is the 2.5-liter variant. I understand that fluid checks require reaching a specific temperature beforehand; does this also pertain to this situation, or is it acceptable to perform it after the fluid has been stationary for some time, akin to an oil change? I also discovered information regarding the rear differential, and it appears that the total capacity will be 5.6 quarts.

Which powertrain option? The 2.5? If it is the 2.5, then the drainage and replenishment process resembles that of the Camry, Rav4, Highlander, and Venza, which share a comparable powertrain. Thus, you possess an abundance of YouTube videos to view. Remember to consider the rear differential.

I appreciate your assistance. In response to your inquiry The reason is that I am approaching 70,000 miles, so I would prefer to address it promptly.

If you possess a hybrid, which I presume you do, 1. what is the rationale for implementing it on a 2024 vehicle? Indeed, the procedure and capabilities remain consistent throughout the entire hybrid range. There is nothing remarkable about it, as it merely involves a fundamental drain and fill to drip, rendering a flush impossible. The fundamental guideline is to remove the FILL plug initially!!!!!!!!! They are extremely tightened. Possess a genuine 10mm hex socket that fits perfectly. Ensure it is fully inserted. You might require a cheat pipe as they are exceedingly torqued. Ensure you select the appropriate plug, as there are approximately four or five similar-looking plugs present. The front's capacity was previously approximately 4.2 quarts. Utilise Toyota WS ATF; however, it is inconsequential as it serves merely as a fundamental splash lubricant. You require either a car lift or four stands, as the vehicle must be level. Upon making my modifications, I utilised a narrow-tipped funnel, affixed an appropriately sized tube to it, extending sufficiently to reach the fill aperture, and secured it to the hood strut. Alternatively, you will require either a manual or electric pump to introduce ATF. Once more, it is devoid of any uniqueness. If the fill plug is stripped, you will need to chisel it to gain access.

Greetings, greetings, I am preparing to replace the gearbox fluid in my 24 Crown Limited and would appreciate any guidance or resources on the procedure. I have viewed several videos regarding gearbox service for various Toyota hybrids (specifically Car Care Nut's video) and for the latest 25+ Camry, and I am curious if the identical procedure is applicable to the Crown. I was curious about the exact amount of total fluid required for a standard drain and fill without performing a flush. I will undertake this task with my father, who possesses extensive mechanical expertise, yet I still wish to be adequately prepared. I appreciate your assistance in advance.

I have observed some impairment to the loom. Previously, it experienced severe roughness, and the auto electrician discovered damage to one of the injector feeds. I will call him tomorrow and persuade him to join us. I appreciate your counsel.

Have you verified the primary engine ground connection and all fuses in the front and rear SAMs? I lack diagrams of them, but it might be prudent to inspect them along with any visible wiring harnesses for indications of damage

It is feasible, as I have encountered that problem previously, yet I cannot discern anything apparent.

Could the wiring have sustained damage from rodents during the time it was not in use?

The fob battery has had its protective film taken off; I am already aware of this, can you surmise how? The primary battery and the supplementary battery both exhibit a satisfactory 12v measurement (the fob battery was also tested at 3v). I lack the means to assess the primary battery's performance under load for amperage, but that is irrelevant if I cannot start the engine. I have additionally inspected the fuses and relays.

Can you verify the voltage in the engine compartment? Typically, there exists a Positive terminal for connecting jump leads.

Who replaced the two batteries in the vehicle? Are you entirely certain that they were properly connected? Are you certain that the protective cover has been taken off one of the terminals on the batteries within the key fobs? Easily disregarded. Can you surmise how I am aware? 🤔 The batteries within the key fob serve to energise the RF signal for locking and unlocking. Not intended for initiating the engine. Based on your account, it appears you might be facing two issues. I presume you have tested both keys in the ignition? There may be a defect in the Electronic Ignition Switch (EIS), which is not unusual.

The two new batteries are completely charged. The key fob is unable to unlock the doors, yet it can rotate in the ignition switch, although the dashboard lights do not illuminate.

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Has the automobile battery been completely replenished? The fob batteries are unrelated to disengaging the steering lock or disabling the immobiliser to initiate the vehicle. The steering lock identifies the key, and the immobiliser circuit within the key receives power through induction from a coil located in the steering lock or ignition switch.

2013 CLS 250 model. Remained seated for 14 minutes. Both batteries are depleted and have been substituted, along with a new fob battery. I was required to utilise the mechanical key to unlock the vehicle, yet nothing occurs when I insert the fob into the ignition. Is there a procedure to reset the fob so that it can recognise the vehicle and vise versa?

I appreciate it once more. A Tongou RCCB has been ordered (and I have already substituted the 32A MCB with a 40A variant) thus everything is satisfactory 🙂

Utilise the Search Community to locate references to Tongou. Proficient electricians present have conducted evaluations on several of these items, which are certainly worth investigating. It's somewhat beyond my comprehension.

I presently incur charges of 28.952p during daytime hours and 6.993p from 23:00 to 06:00 (SC 62.873p daily). We possess diesel and PHEV petrol vehicles in addition to the EV, resulting in a modest (yet growing) EV mileage. The supplementary "bonus" slots from 05:30 to 11:00 could be advantageous; however, during the essential overnight timeframe, transitioning to "intelligent" charging would result in a loss of one hour and a mere savings of 0.09p/kWh, which is insufficient to warrant ceding control or to validate the expense of a "intelligent" charging unit. If I possessed solar panels and home batteries, the circumstances would change.

It is likely that you currently possess historical charging data, which will assist you in determining the cost-effectiveness of a ‘intelligent’ EVSE. On Intelligent Octopus Go, I am charged 6.9p per kWh during off-peak hours and 30.46p per kWh during peak hours, in addition to a standing fee. The economical rate is a fixed period from 23:30 to 05:30, and extends from 23:30 until 11:00 the following day for electric vehicle charging. Electricity is available at a reduced rate for the entire residence during the designated period, in addition to any charging intervals assigned to me between 05:30 and 11:00. EV charging stations are assigned dynamically by Octopus, and their allocation may vary based on load and consumption. In my situation, my electric vehicle lacks integration with IOG, so I utilise an Ohme Home Pro EVSE, which does have that capability, and it is the Ohme that manages the charging sessions. If you can determine your ratio of low-cost to peak charging, you will be able to contrast it with a conventional, fixed-time, overnight tariff. Approximately 52% of my appliance electricity usage can be rescheduled to the overnight period (such as the dishwasher and washing machine) or involves electric vehicle charging during off-peak hours designated by Octopus. I rarely need to charge the electric vehicle unexpectedly during peak pricing hours, although I frequently connect it during the day to prepare for the following day and receive daytime slots assigned by Octopus. Utilising a 'intelligent' EVSE such as the Ohme, in conjunction with the IOG tariff, is beneficial for us, although we represent a particular scenario. It may not be effective for all individuals. However, keep in mind that despite lacking an immersion heater, tumble dryer, batteries, or underfloor electric heating, it has still proven to be economical for us. We are still evaluating home batteries, as the point of financial equilibrium would occur approximately between 5 to 6 years.