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It is my strong suspicion that the piston rings are knackered and that the rocker cover PCV-BGA are of very poor quality. Stick to brick-and-mortar stores for all of your genuine BMW, FAI, or Febi needs.

SSI Valve Stem Seals Set (16pcs) for Mini Cooper R55 R56 R57 R58; Replaces | OEM 11340033950 : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Amazon.co.uk : BGA Mini Cooper parts

Amazon.co.uk : n14 engine

Most likely the final one equipped with the N14 engine. The car is using a lot of oil, around 92,000. Half of the dipstick in 150 miles. The oil has gotten into the spark plugs. All cylinders undergo compression testing at 150 psi. No oil is present in the turbo's intake or boost pipes. Victor Reinz has changed the seals on the valve stems. The intake manifold contains some oil. The PCV valve is an integral part of the rocker top, so I swapped it out. The BGA one, I must admit. Nothing else was available when I needed it. Right now, oil consumption is at an all-time high. I always stay away from BGA components because of the horror stories I've heard. Could it be that it's burning oil from somewhere else, like oil control rings? I want to make sure I get a high-quality cover. Even though it has decent compression. Let me show you my leak down tester. I need conclusive tests with instructions on how to interpret the results before I dismantle the engine.

Exactly the same model with 36,000 miles on it just like this one. This money pit will soon be dumped.

Ignoring worries about hybrid batteries in the future is a smart move. These Hybrid gremlins aren't exclusive to Mazda, in my opinion. Giving up 10 mpg meant simplifying the system and eliminating the need to buy an expensive hybrid battery, both of which I did.

That error message didn't appear until about 30 days after I purchased it used in April. Everything has been running smoothly ever since they changed the battery under the floorboard.

Oh no! Your explanation is much appreciated. The replacement was indeed the sub battery, as confirmed by the dealer when I contacted him. My apologies. We have now swapped out the 12 volt and the sub battery. There was no start-up error message on the day the 12-volt was replaced. Each start the following day brings an error message. On day three, you should see an error message about every other start. Today, after six starts, there was no error message. It seems like things are improving. Returning next Thursday for additional diagnostic testing.

The battery that Mazda charges $250 for is available for less than $40 at Walmart or Amazon, so I would replace it myself if the warranty had expired. As an aside, the main battery of a PHEV is 355V (17.8KW), while the battery of a mild hybrid (one that is not a PHEV) is 48V. Assuming the hybrid battery was replaced under warranty, it's likely that you had multiple faults because Mazda would not have authorised the replacement without the associated testing and codes.

Found in the foot well area of the passenger compartment is the P143B, a 12V sub battery. I will be submitting my 2024 for this code next week. If you need help diagnosing or replacing the sub battery, this video should do the trick:

Amazon.co.uk : Mazda CX-90 PHEV 12 volt car battery

Amazon.co.uk : Mazda CX-90 48 volt battery

With 53k miles under the hood, I'm rocking a 2024 CX-90 PHEV. I am seeing the "Hybrid System Malfunction" message right now. Code P143B:00 was pulled by the dealer. My dealer replaced the 48 volt battery over the course of two visits. Swapped out the under-hood 12-volt battery at a later time. The error message disappeared for one day after the 12-volt battery was installed, but it later reappeared. The battery, which is about the size of a lawnmower, is located beneath the passenger floorboard. Remember that this went on for three months, and every time I started, I had to close the error message. In retrospect, I think the initial diagnosis was incorrect. Is anyone else going through the same thing?

For example, I just searched eBay for "0044301830" and got seventy-four results.

Posting a couple of links to your eBay search would have been helpful to the original poster. I did a search using the 830 Part#, but came up empty.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181132&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X6fc9d2fa852645d417d0308f3108abf9&subId2=15

On eBay, you can find around 50 of those 830 part numbers.

Look up the part numbers on Google. #Mercedes 0044301830 and others

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=master+cylinder&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181132&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512Xa4c24a0804ef8ff79bc5fd49a9d5c3b8&subId2=15

Hey everyone, I'm in need of some assistance finding a used master cylinder/servo that matches my current one. The only one I've found so far is from a German breaker who isn't very communicative, and the part number is 0044301830. Whether anyone knows if other W202 parts are compatible, please let me know.Many thanks

Thanks! I've only tested it on the underwater side, but the door still turns on the inside light. I can verify if the passenger side exhibits the identical behaviour.

Is this an issue with just one door, and does opening the door switch on the inside light? This is completely conjectural, but I'm wondering if lubricating the door jamb switch might fix it.

Thanks, and there have been a few "intermittent faults" with the car, but they are manageable and relatively minor.