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I have attempted to charge the mobile phone, but it is still not working. Yes, I did inspect the fuse because the guarantee does not cover wiring or fuses. Does anyone have experience with software glitches?

The scope of the warranty determines the answer to the last question. Unplugging is often not done. Is one more memory stick not working?

Greetings, everyone! I had a memory stick in my USB-C charger for the front-mounted dashcam, but it stopped operating while I was driving. Still haven't solved the problem after power cycling the system and resetting the program. Light from the LED surrounding the USB is shining. They indicated the fuse was fine when I took the vehicle to a general repair shop. The only thing I did was have Halfords install a back dashcam two weeks ago; it runs from the battery in the trunk. Can you tell me what's wrong? Will this defect be covered by my extended warranty? Much obliged

Based on my experience with my other mini, I know that the pump isn't the problem. After reviewing the scan tool's data, I've narrowed it down to one issue: the fuel rail pressure is only 1.3 mpa, while it's 5.2 mpa on my other mini. My only remaining guess is that the fuel rail pressure sensor is giving a false reading and preventing the engine from starting.

The smoke machine, along with a reliable scan tool and real-time data, will make pinpointing easier. To test whether the problem lies with the pump or the cracked pipe, try disconnecting the fuel line that runs from the high-pressure pump to the fuel rail; in rare cases, this may work.

Well done, you've ruled out that avenue 👍.

They were all removed from a running vehicle, and the sensors that were in there were likewise tested on the running vehicle and found to be in working order.

You need compression levels above 190 psi for a turbo, which is currently low. I find it interesting that brake cleaner/easy start only moistens the plugs, yet having spark is helpful. Were the sensors you swapped out OEM parts from a local retailer or authentic BMW parts? I won't claim otherwise, but with all the fake stuff floating around, it's worth verifying.

Amazon.com

ey there! I just acquired a 2007 R56 Cooper S. The test drive was great, however the seller wanted it gone fast because he was going on a six-month work trip (which I verified). Any advice? We drove out after agreeing on a price—which was ridiculously low—but the vehicle suddenly stopped working on me after just 4.6 miles.I am an old-school mechanic who is familiar with carbs and distributors, so I thought this would be easy. However, it ran out of fuel when I was on a busy road, and I tried to start it until the battery died. Now, two weeks later, I have bought a second-running R56 Chevy to try to fix it. It starts up and runs smoothly, but that's about it. Following is a rundown of everything I've done thus far; I've swapped out all the parts for runners and it still operates, however a quick Google search revealed that the HPFP change was unsuccessful. The reader displays 27ce codes. Revised hpfp Revised lpfp to Vanos solenoid replaced Replaced the camera's sensor Modified maf sensors I used the setting tool to verify the timing, and it was perfect. During priming and cranking, 12v at LPFP Ignite all four spark plugs Has the sensation of exhaust pressure when turning the crank Cold compression test results show 155 to 166 psi. I use the easy start method, however it only moistens the plugs. Both horsepower and torque gages show fuel rail pressures of 1.3 mpa on the reader and 5.1 mpa on the runner. The only sensors I haven't switched out yet are the ones for fuel rail pressure and crank, and now I don't know what to do. Who can provide me a hand?

Sadly, no; he's firmly putting his foot down. What a shame, because that car is just stunning. I simply do not believe it at this time.

Defeating the dealers is not an easy task. If you are in the UK, I hope a strongly worded letter referencing the Consumer Rights Act would be enough.

My research online indicated that these were tty bolts, so I appreciate your confirming that. Stretch or not, the assembly was a major letdown. It is a matter of trading standards because the dealer is also refusing to accept returns. Buddy, I really appreciate you sharing that information.

Since these are not stretch bolts, you can reuse them provided you get the correct part and keep it straight. But it seems like it hasn't followed the exact fitting sequence that is required.

The question I have is whether any technicians are available to provide me any advice. It just took a few hours after I bought my 2014 Outlander for the top injector to pop. During my investigation, I found that one of the three bolts wasn't even an injector bolt, the other two were twisted, and the retention bolt on the right side was missing. This shambles because the dealer just got a chain and balance shaft. Were those bolts supposed to be changed out when the chain was being worked on? 103,00 miles According to him, they can be reused, according to his "Mitsubishi trained mechanic." Apparently, that included the one that wasn't an injector bolt. Much obliged in advance!

Is the water in the battery compartment of the boot related in any way? It appears unusual because I am unable to determine its source.

Checked it out, mate. The battery is OK; I just got a new one.

Determine the voltage of the battery.

Greetings everyone, Unfortunately, my 2006 E64 does not have comfort access. The vehicle was operating smoothly; I disabled it, locked it, etc. After getting back in, I tried turning the key, but the engine still wouldn't start or crank. The symbol "key not detected" is displayed. Even with the spare key, I was unable to get the car to start today; the dashboard lights came on, but there was no symbol. Can you offer any recommendations?

Yes, they should be commended. I didn't have high hopes because my previous interactions with other manufacturers were less than stellar. The response was rapid and comprehensive. Above everything else, it was successful 😄.

The Mercedes Me support staff is top-notch; whenever I've had an issue, I've received prompt and informative responses: email: [email protected]

It is the API level ntg6/081 version of the software. Based on what I could tell from the navigation, the original date was 2019, and the most recent upgrade was in 2019. In addition to posting here, I messaged Mercedes, and they responded with a really useful response. They claim that future over-the-air updates will not occur if there have been problems with earlier ones. Next time, the update should be automatic, but for now, I'll have to manually apply it. I now have a complete upgrade on a USB stick, and the instructions were really detailed, which is unusual these days. My next step is to locate an adaptor that will allow the USB stick to connect to the USB c port in my vehicle. Finally, I'm almost there. By the way, my car doesn't have an SD card.

That will guide you step-by-step. Our vehicle can detect when an SD card is inserted with an updated map. It displays both the current version installed in the vehicle and the new version on the card.

With COMAND NTG 5.5, our 2019 C Class is only pre-MBUX, but you can see the map version in the options. I believe it can be found in the Navigation menu and on the main page of the system settings. Because of how long it takes for OTA map updates to load, I usually just use Mercedes Me on my computer to download them to an SD card, and then I install them in the car that way. A USB stick might work as well, though I haven't tested that.