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Requires charging, as mentioned earlier. The power required to simply stand a car is small, but it is still there. I'm still going strong after four months.

Because of its four-month history with the vehicle, this battery is obviously not brand new. Should be given a good run or charged.

After only a few starts, it's safe to assume the battery is dead. Starting drains a significant amount of juice, so simply turning it on and running won't replenish the charge. Once the battery is fully charged, it's a good idea to perform a parasitic drain test. Make sure to charge it thoroughly.

Amazon.co.uk : BimmerCode

Bosch BMW Ignition Coil OEM 04470/94937 (6pcs) : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Since then, it has only been started a couple of times; it has not been driven. The next time I want to use it, I'll have to reset the time on the clock, fix the yellow low battery light, and figure out how to unlock the boot without damaging the car. 80Ah 800 CCA was the initial battery specification. A Bosch 95Ah 800 CCA was used as a replacement. It was probably registered and coded with Bimmercode. For the past eight years, I've driven this vehicle without incident. Has the car's brand-new battery really died after four months of inactivity? Will I have to buy it all over again?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=BMW+ISTA+diagnostic+software

My standard procedure is to use long-nose pliers to slide up the small white locking tab, then squeeze it to remove the plug. I believe that higher-spec foxwell, autel, launch, isa, etc., will be able to handle it, but the 301 won't.

I was afraid it would be necessary to replace it by now, so I appreciate your help. Excuse my seemingly elementary question: is there a special technique for disconnecting the power cord? When I was cleaning the egr valve, I left it connected because I was afraid I would break it. Would it be better to use an app like Ista to reset the adaptations on my inexpensive scanning tool, the Fowell nt301? Many thanks

My apologies; I mistook it for having been replaced. If cleaning does not resolve the issue, the fault codes suggest a problem with the position sensing. Using a real Wahler valve is the way to go. In order for the ECU to learn the new valve positions, you must reset the adaptation with diagnostic equipment when you replace it.

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What exactly do you mean when you say "reset adaptation"? Instead of installing a new one, I simply cleaned the old one.

What brand of EGR did you install, and did you reset the adaptation?

https://www.amazon.com/s?ascsubtag=v1-a484af-606291-72ad3856a6-k&k=BMW+EGR+valve

Good day, I'm experiencing problems with the EGR valve. Here are the codes I'm seeing: The range and performance of the P046C EGR sensor 'A' circuit 'A' control for P042F EGR is stuck closed. The codes persist despite my two attempts to clean the egr valve. Can you suggest anything I should do after this? Many thanks

The rear camera is so bad that it's practically useless after a rainy trip unless you take it outside and wipe it down. The door mirrors, however, appear to have avoided the majority of the spray, so there is that.

Thank you! I was hoping they provided some protection, but I did notice that they were small. The EV2 will end up with a dirty rear end just like the EV3, which is a shame, but I suppose the spray can't be stopped from reaching that level.

In fact, when it rains, the EV2's upright back end becomes filthy. I had KIA mudflaps installed as part of the purchase, and I must say, they're not very practical at all! In addition to falling approximately 30 mm short of the bodywork, they barely cover half the width of the tires. In my opinion, they are grossly inadequate, so I wouldn't recommend them for the EV2 until aftermarket larger mudflaps become available.

I was wondering if the EV2 would experience the same issue as the EV3 did with the back end getting really dirty. My guess is yes. If that's the case, I'm curious if installing mud flaps will help.

open the door and deactivate the handbreak by pulling the release lever on the dashboard.

It's not easy to push such a heavy vehicle. You could also try chiselling out a section of wall where the door meets the wall if the garage in question. It made all the difference when I did that and added an extra inch to the door opening. For parking, I turn the ignition back on, use the parking brake button to disable the brake, and then turn off the ignition, but I've never tried keeping it in neutral while turned off.

If the hardware for remote parking is already installed in your vehicle, you might want to look into it. Having the subscription on my own car allowed me to park in more congested multi-story garages, with those concrete circular pillars. However, I no longer have it.

From what I can recall, you can try stepping out of the vehicle, shutting the door, pressing down on the brake pedal with a piece of wood or similar object, shifting into neutral, and finally pushing the car into the garage. Unlock the door. Repeat the process to remove it once more.

Even though it fits in my garage, I'll be taking it somewhere else soon. Right now, though, it would be so much easier if I could just push it in without any trouble getting out. It would be great if I could force it in, but if that isn't possible, then it's okay.