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Much obliged; I shall take your advice and, fingers crossed, it will not break the bank. Once again, I am deeply grateful.

The same as before. Yes, you can start the engine without the belt. The alternator and anything else driven by the belt could be the problem, but if the noise goes, then you are on the right track because it could just be a tensioner.

Amazon.co.uk : BMW

I seriously doubt that BMW will extend any kind of assistance for a vehicle that is fourteen years old, regardless of its service history. It sounds more like something is going on with the belt run, so I would temporarily remove the aux belt and see if the noise continues.

Hello everyone, This is my first post since I recently purchased a 2012 320i with 65,000 miles. The engine bay is making me nervous, though. It may be the notorious n20 engine whine, but it seems louder close to the serpentine belt. Excellent maintenance has always been performed at the main dealer for this vehicle. Is it possible to request a refund from the main dealer, considering that the timing chain has been serviced every 5,000 to 6,000 miles by them? Any advice or assistance would be greatly appreciated. You have my utmost gratitude.

Under the driver's side of the car, there is a dpf that has been cleaned and removed. I deleted the swirl flaps because I thought they were the source of the problem, just like it happened on my Vito. Then I discovered that I needed to delete the EGR.

Do you have a DPF on your vehicle? For nineteen years, my 2007 Vito had an OM642 (with DPF) that was very similar; it went into limp mode frequently, but every time I turned the EML on, it was fine. Reasons for it were... Monitoring device for fuel pressure the EGR valve, the DPF pressure sensor A temperature sensor for MAS DPF Turbo shot (manifolds with delaminations) Additionally, the engine went into dead mode instead of limp mode due to a failed CPS. All of the aforementioned occurred prior to approximately 95,000 miles... completed nearly 100,000 additional miles thereafter without significant problems. No need to mess with the mapping or swirl flaps; DPF has always worked perfectly. If you can get yours fixed, good luck! When they're working properly, they're great engines.

Since I am not knowledgeable about mapping, I will have to take the mapping company at their word when they say that the ether delete was successfully completed. However, having used their services on other vehicles, I have faith in their abilities. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions you might have regarding the main issue, which is the exorbitant cost of transporting the vehicle back to the UK via ferry.

Codes that are present but not displayed can cause a myriad of problems, and poor quality remapping is no exception. There have been a few threads on this site where that has occurred.

Yes, I did clean the MAF sensor. I make it a point to do so once every twelve months when I change the oil and filter.

Truthfully, I had assumed that the swirl flaps were to blame for their deletion; my mapping colleague discovered the deletion, and neither his system nor my Icarsoft could reproduce the error codes.

Is the MAF sensor still dirty after you cleaned it? This was a common occurrence for my C250TD when I was using it.

Hi there, I just discovered that someone deleted the EGR system and swirl flaps from my 90k mileage car today. Upon startup, it will run for about 10–20 seconds before entering limp mode, from which it will not emerge.

Swirling flaps can make noise without actually throwing a code. I would like to know the car's mileage.

Errors detected on the scanner but no EML.

No engine management light is on. A mapping company used their diagnostics to look into the faults, and they found no codes. An icarsoft scanner was also used.

What kind of scanner did they use? Not all generic ones are able to detect MB-specific error codes. According to what @Matt865 mentioned, the EML will activate and display a fault code, either current or historical, if you are in limp mode.

Does limp mode trigger the engine management light to illuminate? Was "no faults codes are presented" referring to the cluster or to the reading of the codes internally? When diagnostics are run, a fault code is typically logged that points to the cause, although it could be anything.

Greetings, all! The model year is 2008. After a normal startup, it enters limp mode and won't reset until rebooted; after that, it starts over. There is absolutely no indication of error codes. This just happened recently; previously, the car would occasionally go into limp mode, but resetting it was as simple as turning off the ignition, waiting 30 seconds, and restarting. After that, it would run smoothly for a few more months. Many thanks

https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/1/fg/205005/c01/49/218/

Find out if the Nox sensor on the left or right side is malfunctioning first. Which one is right for you? Get a star reading from a Mercedes expert. These part numbers are provided by the EPC. oxi sensor with 400 A 009090536-33-04 NOX SENSOR FRONT L=815MM 001 This item is front-loading and has a length of 815 millimetres. The part number is 0090953706. Nox sensor front 001A 00 090 598 03: 400 Follow the link below to access this information. Find Item 400 on the OM651 schematic by clicking on it and scrolling down. If you buy from the main dealer or have the specialist supply it, you can be sure it's the right one.

When installed, it will need to be "coded" to your car, though I'm not sure which one.

Good day. Bluetec c220 from 2015. P220E and P220E77 are the codes that I possess. I can't seem to track down the correct front nox sensor despite being informed that it needs replacing. Both A0009053503 and A0009053603 have been given to me as the front one. Can someone tell me which one it is? Just curious. I would be forever indebted if someone could!

Many have noted that having your vehicle examined by a dealer as soon as possible is a benefit of the JLR warranty with recovery. Otherwise, the dealer may take a few months to look at it, depending on the dealer. With a non-JLR warranty, you won't be tied to an LR dealer, so it's a good choice if you know a reliable independent.