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That concludes the responses thus far; I suspect the new battery may be defective. I charged it overnight, and as soon as I disconnect the charger, the voltage declines significantly. Proceeding with additional investigation.

Could it be that the drive battery temperature control was activated? Did you access the automobile through the app at that moment, thereby activating it?

Thank you. Mine plummeted unexpectedly on the track yesterday.

I will verify that the boot light does not remain illuminated when the boot is closed. Upon examining the trace on my BM 6 over a 24-hour period (vehicle stationary throughout), there is minimal voltage decline. Until 10:00, the Battery Management System activates to charge the 12V battery. Provided the drive battery remains over 20%, the Battery Management System (BMS) should maintain the 12V charge, as of 10:00.

Thank you for your reply. I ventured out this afternoon, and upon returning after an hour, the device was functioning well, displaying no warnings and a battery reading of 12.4 volts. I hope Kia can resolve the issues related to their 12v systems and possible ICCU failures. I have possessed the car since last April, and it is an exceptional vehicle; nonetheless, I lack confidence in it. It may be prudent to examine alternative options.

That does not seem typical to me. I would recommend having it examined. The voltage off charge should be approximately 12.9 volts when unloaded and roughly 12 volts when activated. During charging or operation, the battery should register approximately 14 volts.

Enquire whether anyone has experienced this. This morning, I entered the vehicle, and my BM2 indicated a low state of charge and a battery voltage of 10.5 volts. The battery was just replaced with a Yuasa Silver. The vehicle initiated without issue and indicated charging during my 30-minute journey, with the state of charge increasing. Returned to the vehicle thirty minutes later; it started without issue, but the voltage was again low. Arrived home and turned off the vehicle; the voltage immediately decreased again. I replaced the 12v battery with the old one, which indicated 12.65v, and immediately it began to decline to low 11v readings. The vehicle in utility mode indicates that it is charging properly; nevertheless, there seems to be an anomaly with the battery voltage decreasing despite no active components. I have verified the voltages with a multimeter, and they correspond accurately to the BM2 readings. Are these indications of an impending ICCU failure?

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Does the engine engage each time you attempt to start it?

The vehicle appears to initiate operation on the second or third attempt, necessitating the removal of the key each time. Voltage measures 12.33 volts with the vehicle off and 14.79 volts when the vehicle is operational.

Could it be a parasitic drain?

This evening, I attempted to use the automobile again. Initially, it failed to start, but upon subsequent attempts, it successfully started. What might be occurring? Refer to the accompanying video.

Have you re-evaluated the voltage since it has malfunctioned once more?

I measured the battery voltage, which was 11.6 volts. The car was jump-started and functioned properly. Measured the voltage at 14.4V, indicating the alternator is functioning properly; nevertheless, the battery is not retaining the charge. Installed a new battery; the vehicle started and operated without issue throughout the day. I parked the vehicle and left it overnight, but when I attempted to start it this morning to go out, it would not start again. Any recommendations?

What is the age of your battery? A gate stamp will be present on one of the terminals.

During the recent cold snap, the vehicle failed to start. The RAC arrived, disconnected and then reconnected the battery, after which the vehicle started without issue. Inspected both the battery and alternator, confirming that both are functioning properly. Left the vehicle idle for around five minutes. The following day, I attempted to start the car, but it failed to start once more. I assume the battery may be the issue, but could someone share their experiences before I invest in a new one?

I have consistently used ATE discs and pads on my E61 and E65, which were reasonably priced from Autodoc, and I believe they were the original equipment manufacturer for both vehicles.

I can locate these on Autodoc. Is this the optimal site for placing these orders, or do you recommend an alternative website? ECP, Halfords, and similar retailers offer a restricted selection of brands.

What is the cost of a complete set of front and rear discs and pads from BMW?

Authentic BMW brake discs and pads are a reliable choice. Simply inhale deeply when you visit the dealership.

I often install Zimmerman discs and Textar pads nowadays.

Greetings to all, I seek your feedback on which brakes to select. I need to replace the brake pads and will also attend to the discs concurrently. Which brand do you suggest? I wish to circumvent Pagid and similar brands from ECP, since I am aware of their subpar quality.

Did you verify the car's mileage prior to entrusting it to them and upon retrieval? If it was possessed for several weeks, it may have been utilised as a runaround or courtesy vehicle by individuals who exhibited negligence in their driving.