bvlenci Posted 24 minutes ago Share Posted 24 minutes ago So here I am, at a crossroads. I came in with a hole in my block after spending some time on this golf. Using a BLG cylinder head, I completely rebuilt after discovering a CAV block. A little hesitancy during takeoff, a failure code of P000A for a slow camshaft, and the use of the CAV timing cover and oil feed pipe were necessary. The engine started easily without rattles or oil pressure lights. Whenever I check the live data while it's idle, it remains at 20°. Thanks in advance for any suggestions you may have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard_silver Posted 23 minutes ago Share Posted 23 minutes ago Since replacing the VVT valve is simple and inexpensive, I would do that first. However, if that doesn't work, the problem may lie with the oil pressure, which is preventing the VVT hub from moving properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bvlenci Posted 23 minutes ago Author Share Posted 23 minutes ago Thank you for your response. I have tested two separate solutions, and they both yielded the same outcome. As I watched the scantool, my next move would have been to fabricate a plug to fit into the VVT valve's opening, either to take oil pressure from there or to apply external oil pressure. Anyone given this a go? What is the lowest oil pressure at which issues become noticeable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard_silver Posted 22 minutes ago Share Posted 22 minutes ago Yes, I did that when I was chasing an oil pressure problem on a CAVD; if I could locate it, I could give it to you for the postage cost! To test it, remove the switch and place it where it will be at its lowest point; an M10x1 adapter is required. From a diagnostic standpoint, there is no feedback other than the switch. But the VVT bore tests I did weren't helpful either. After removing the engine to its bare blocks, skimming the deck, and having an engineer inspect and polish the crank, I rebuilt the engine with a new head and all new parts, but I never found out what was wrong. The only parts that were reused were the block, rods, crank, sump, and chain cover; all other parts were new. Despite Plastigauge checking the crank, the oil pressure remained low. That disaster cost me about £25,000, but in the end I got a real VW exchange engine. At 2000 RPM and oil temperature of 80°C, the book oil pressure at the head test port is 2 Bar, but that is far too low; you should see 3 BAR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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