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Instructions for replacing the headlight level sensor / ride level sensor on a w212 E350 without air suspension.


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Greetings Mercedes-Benz enthusiasts,

There is a fracture on the ball joint linkage arm of the rear level sensor responsible for adjusting the height of the xenon headlights. I purchased new links, but when removing the links/sensor on the rear passenger side (located above the drive shaft), I saw a break in the sensor housing where it holds the fastening bolts. Additionally, the balls of the ball joints are heavily rusted and rough. Despite extensive efforts to repair and improve them, there is too much corrosion present to provide a smooth surface for the replacement arms.

Considering the malfunctioning sensor housing, I am contemplating replacing the level sensors. However, I need assistance, please.

1. Are there sensors on both sides of the back, or is there just one on the rear passenger side wheel suspension linkage and one on the front driver's wheel suspension linkage? Does the system just need knowledge of the chassis pitch in order to automatically modify the dipping beam? Can somebody provide the component numbers for all the level sensors for my 2011 w212 E350? Alternatively, I would appreciate recommendations for other units that are not as expensive as the £400 ones offered by Mercedes.

2. After reassembling everything today, I noticed that my headlights are positioned too high this evening, indicating that I had inadvertently disrupted something. I completely detached the level sensor and unplugged it. I presume that whatever this pertains to, it would present the same problem if I were to install a new level sensor. How do I recalibrate the xenon headlights to the proper alignment? Is it possible to do this task with iCarsoft?

3. All components, with the exception of the plate (with the corresponding ball joint) that links to the upper rear suspension arm, may be removed quite easily. I attempted to detach the apparent sole fastening nut for the plate (as seen in the pictures), but the plate seemed to be firmly affixed to the upper suspension arm, as it showed no signs of movement. Considering that this plate and its corresponding ball joint are equipped with a new level sensor, is there any aspect that I should be aware of before removing it?

The securing nut has been detached from the rear of the plate that is connected to the ball joint.

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Regrettably, I failed to verify the component number of the rear sensor when it was taken out of the vehicle due to time constraints and my concern about being unable to remove the plate.

What are your thoughts about this Metzger item?

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I apologise for directly mentioning you; you possess a wealth of valuable knowledge and advice. I would want to express my gratitude in advance for any recommendations you may have.

One possible solution is to remove the upper suspension arm and use aggressive methods such as heating, drilling, and using a 5lb lump hammer to detach the old ball joint plate. Alternatively, you may replace the upper arm entirely and install a new ball joint plate that includes a new sensor.

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The product is an LEMFÖRDER Rod / Strut with the part number 36250 01, specifically designed for the rear left upper position.

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/lemforder/7020956?tduid=9bfc80bc028c57ec75fec94c02ef9c9b

The presence of two holes in the arm indicates the intended location for the ball joint plate.
The Right hand comparable arm (36251 01) likewise has the two pictured holes, however their presence may be attributed to manufacturing convenience rather than serving as confirmation of the presence of a level sensor on the rear driver's side.

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Cars equipped with air suspension include a level sensor on both sides. Steel sprung automobiles has just a single spring. It is conceivable to rotate the arm, which might explain why the headlamps are positioned higher. Alternatively, the sensor may have ceased functioning due to external interference. The brackets often experience corrosion, which causes them to become immovable. Applying a penetrating fluid and carefully moving in a back and forth motion will be beneficial. I have previously used a little amount of heat to extract them, but exercise very caution since you are in close proximity to the gasoline tank and other combustible materials. You have removed the nut. The remaining component is just a locating pin.

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I will apply penetrating fluid and let it sit till the weekend.

If it is not possible, would you suggest removing the upper arm to improve access, grip, leverage, or hammering capability? Last month, the subframe was changed, which is indicated by the new black paint finish on the subframe. As a result, one end of the arm has just fallen off. I anticipate that it should not be very challenging to remove and work on it on the bench.

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This is the consequence of a renowned and long-established automobile manufacturer driving a steel screw into an aluminium hole, fully aware that it would be subjected to various weather conditions.

Embrace the power of heat and violence as allies in this battle. In my workshop, I own a tool known as a 'flame' arsenal. This tool utilises MAPP gas to produce a very concentrated and precise flame. As Jobsworth advises, caution must be used about the fuel tank. When I observe individuals on YouTube, they often use a plumber's gas torch to apply heat to objects when working on automobiles. I am usually curious about the specific component that the person is attempting to warm. What is the purpose of the nut and the bolt? or the whole assembly?

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