clk320x4 Posted 21 hours ago Share Posted 21 hours ago Greetings, everyone. I am receiving many trouble codes on my 2010 E350. The initial focus is on the Air Intake Temperature sensor, which I intend to replace due to the original appearing contaminated, and the cost is sufficiently low. I was informed that the codes are associated with a defective MAF sensor. Enclosed are the codes and the real-time readings from my Maf sensors. Unplugging sensor B results in a value of 0g. Upon disconnecting Sensor A, the readout displays 166g, while Sensor B subsequently increases to 8g. I am willing to invest in a replacement MAF sensor, but I seek guidance before making any purchases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clk320x4 Posted 21 hours ago Author Share Posted 21 hours ago I have recently replaced the temperature sensor, and I am not surprised that it did not resolve the issue. I have observed that when I disconnect Sensor A, its temperature remains at 79°C whereas Sensor B decreases to 21°C. Upon disconnecting Sensor B, both temperatures stabilise at 79°C. The subsequent course of action appears to be attempting a costly MAF replacement, unless someone possesses other insights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMG33D Posted 21 hours ago Share Posted 21 hours ago How is it functioning?Whenever I have experienced MAF failure, the vehicles operated quite poorly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrishazle Posted 21 hours ago Share Posted 21 hours ago It is uncertain if this information would be beneficial, however when my MAF sensor went down due to a missing fuse, a prominent characteristic was difficult upshifts. If your vehicle is an automobile and you are encountering the same issue, it likely indicates a malfunctioning MAF sensor. - supposing that MB configures the gearbox ECU to default to elevated line pressures in the absence of MAF sensor data, as indicated by my 4L 80E. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojoires Posted 21 hours ago Share Posted 21 hours ago Is it necessary to code a new MAF sensor, or is it a plug-and-play component? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojoires Posted 21 hours ago Share Posted 21 hours ago https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=maf sensor&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512X96b92f06d27220efcdfdfda1c194c2cf&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clk320x4 Posted 21 hours ago Author Share Posted 21 hours ago I apologise, everyone. I did not receive notifications regarding your responses. I ultimately resolved the issue. The MAF was indeed defective. I purchased a pre-owned Y-Pipe in superior condition than mine, which included one MAF. I transferred my functional MAF to it, and it registered the accurate temperature and airflow measurements. Nonetheless, I occasionally have a minor hitch after startup. During discussions with Avantgarde in Clevedon, they indicated that the adjustments must be recalibrated for optimal performance. The issue is that I currently reside in Scotland, necessitating the search for a reputable independent establishment in Edinburgh. All nearby garages I have approached have provided a standard quotation of approximately £90 for one hour of service. It would be more advantageous for me to purchase a superior fault reader than to spend two minutes having them reset it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojoires Posted 21 hours ago Share Posted 21 hours ago You may reset it by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clk320x4 Posted 21 hours ago Author Share Posted 21 hours ago Disconnected the negative terminal for 20 minutes while replacing the fuel filter today. It is currently idling more effectively. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ortsmatt Posted 21 hours ago Share Posted 21 hours ago (edited) It is advisable to inspect all o-rings and seals on the turbo outlet (aluminium pipe) leading to the resonator (plastic box at the front of the engine) and the intercooler. I believe your 2010 model possesses the same or a very similar engine as my 2009 E280. I recently completed all my maintenance, and the performance has significantly improved; I previously underestimated its condition, but I now recognise the sluggishness in throttle response and downshifts. Some of these seals may have been compromised during the installation of the new intake; this is how I realised mine required attention, as I subsequently experienced a check engine light owing to many leaks, including a boost leak at the intercooler pipe. I wanted to bring this to your attention, although you may already be aware. Here is a highly beneficial link that I utilised Edited 21 hours ago by Ortsmatt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clk320x4 Posted 21 hours ago Author Share Posted 21 hours ago Indeed, I completed all necessary tasks when I replaced the thermostat, so I believe I am adequately prepared in that regard. I observed typical oil spots around the seal positions, which had been improperly installed. It appears that the new MAF required calibration in my situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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