Ortsmatt

The pressure regulator orings are in good condition; I did not see any signs of damage or dryness. Since the pumps are identical and cost roughly 100 euros less, I have ordered a secondhand high pressure fuel pump from a Range Rover m57d30 engine. I will inform you on its functionality once I install the pump, which should arrive between February 4 and February 12. In my opinion, the hpfp is to blame since, even though it isn't linked to the common rail, the fuel still pours out of the pump like flowing water when I turn the key, leading me to believe that there should be pressure there.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GLsxREWWYiB6R8228

There are 184 horsepower in this model. If ignition is turned on, the supply pressure is 4.03 mbar; if it is turned off, it is 0.95 mbar. I don't know how to add screenshots, but you can see some of my images at this website. Let me know if it works!

The prior owner informed me that it has started troubles in the past, requiring starting fluid in order to start.

I have tried running diagnostics with IPA on my non-starting BMW E46 330d, and it comes up with a rail pressure of 6 bar. Loosening the high pressure fuel line from the hpfp to the rail caused it to spray fuel, but just a little amount. There was no discernible 'pressure' in the spray. When I measure the pressure before the supply begins, it comes out normally. Escrow was removed. After the gasoline filter, the fuel pressure is normal, according to my inspection. May it be the HPFP pressure regulator's orings or the HPFP unit itself? Additionally, I will document some failure codes from IPA here. 600,000 12800,000 1024,1152, and 7,680 I know you're her; you're my sole possibility.

My EV6 GTLS has reached 80 mph on the M25 several times in the same location. However, this occurs solely when the cruise control is adjusted to align with the speed limit, indicated by the green "NAV" on the dashboard. I believe it is incorrectly interpreting a 60mph variable speed limit sign as 80mph. I believe maintaining the cleanliness of cameras is beneficial. To avert this 'misdetection,' adjust the cruise control to little below 70, so eliminating the search for road signs. One must certainly heed alterations in speed limits, as this remains an integral aspect of driving. Regarding your vehicle's "shimmy" with lane keep assist: I understand your perspective, but perhaps you should acclimatise to it. I perceive it distinctly via the steering wheel, albeit at a level I would classify as 'haptic feedback'; the vehic le does not veer left or right but instead follows the contours of the lane gently. This is not an HDA issue, as it merely maintains a fixed distance from the vehicle ahead. I propose that this is a Lane Keep Assist problem, maybe because to your unfamiliarity with it or because the camera may be obstructed by dirt. Last week, my Lane Keeping Assist (LKA) malfunctioned; during the outbound trip, it failed to maintain my position within the motorway lane as expected, only initiating corrective measures upon my approach to the lane marker. I was employing a relaxed grip to assess its performance, resulting in a noticeably more abrupt driving experience than usual. The return travel proceeded without incident, suggesting that either restarting the vehicle rectified the issue or a camera obstruction was resolved.

I recently encountered the same issue with my 2016 Mini Cooper S F56. The brown ground wire shorted and melted the clip connecting it to the rear light cluster. It also caused a malfunction in the light cluster. Replaced the light cluster, installed a new clip, and established a new ground connection.

Your V5 registration document has a Variant code and the power output in kilowatts (kW). These will assist you in determining your motor/battery configuration. Rear-wheel drive vehicles in 2021, 2022, and 2023 exhibited a variety of specifications. You probably possess a 60kWh battery and a 208kW (279bhp) motor. 0-60 mph in 6.1 seconds. WLTP range of 302 miles (note that the in-car display reflects EPA standards, about 276 miles when new).

It is advisable to inspect all o-rings and seals on the turbo outlet (aluminium pipe) leading to the resonator (plastic box at the front of the engine) and the intercooler. I believe your 2010 model possesses the same or a very similar engine as my 2009 E280. I recently completed all my maintenance, and the performance has significantly improved; I previously underestimated its condition, but I now recognise the sluggishness in throttle response and downshifts. Some of these seals may have been compromised during the installation of the new intake; this is how I realised mine required attention, as I subsequently experienced a check engine light owing to many leaks, including a boost leak at the intercooler pipe. I wanted to bring this to your attention, although you may already be aware. Here is a highly beneficial link that I utilised

Greetings and welcome.

I possess a 2015 Kia Venga SR7. Recently, the ABS, Electronic Stability, and Power Steering warning lights have illuminated on the dashboard. The power steering intermittently malfunctions, and the air conditioning appears to be less effective than previously. I brought it to Kia, where they informed me that they could not extract any data from the OBD-II connection, stated that the diagnostic would be too expensive, and recommended seeking assistance elsewhere. I consulted an independent auto electrician who indicated that the OBD-II was sometimes detecting the power steering pump as absent. He replaced the pump, but the issue persisted. Fortunately, he did not bill me for the pump since he reinstalled the old one. The vehicle's MOT is imminent, and it will not pass until I resolve these issues. Does anyone have suggestions on where to start or what the issue may be? The vehicle remains in excellent shape with approximately 50,000 kilometres on it. I cannot financially accommodate its replacement.

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Thank you for the responses; they have been really helpful. I will attempt to sell it privately.