John278

Hello, I am experiencing the same problem here. I have replaced all the components you specified, and no intake leak was detected during smoke and pressure testing. The vehicle is a W204 OM651 220CDI. Mileage: 220,000. The DPF has been regenerated, and post-regeneration, the DPF fill level is at 15%. However, after driving 100 km, it increases to 55%. The greatest pressure differential at full speed is 270 mbar. The problem is not persistent; it manifests only sometimes. The injectors have been removed and are presently on the test bench, exhibiting comparable results. Any suggestions?

Indeed, I have recently been studying the process of Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) regeneration. It has come to my attention that in the event of a failure, the surplus fuel that is injected during the regeneration process might potentially accumulate in the engine oil sump. I will monitor it closely.

That seems to resemble black magic! Is it possible for the oil level to grow spontaneously? What is its origin? I possess a substantial amount of knowledge to acquire. 🙂

Impressive! Thank you, that is comforting. I will assume that it was just neglected during the last modification and thoroughly review everything once again on my own.

Greetings, everyone. I have had my vehicle for about one month, during which I have engaged in a combination of short trips and longer journeys. Upon purchasing the automobile, I discovered that it had an incomplete service history. As a result, I have just performed an oil and filter replacement. Upon completing the oil exchange, I discovered that around 10 litres of oil had been drained from the engine. Upon refilling the container and regularly monitoring the dipstick, it required around 8 litres of liquid to reach the maximum level. Considering the excessive filling of the item for a minimum of one month, and perhaps since the last documented maintenance service around one year ago, are there any potential issues or attempts by the sellers to conceal any problems that I should be aware of?

It seems that a significant number of automobiles will not be equipped with turning capabilities in the future.

Any Updates

I see, that's OK.

Birmingham, central Scotland

It would be possible, but at great expense; I could go there and back in my own vehicle and acquire what I need with the money I save.

Most likely, but I'll check. An older E46 330d auto wagon/estate is what I'm wanting, however the closest one I can afford is 300 miles away. Since I'm not very good at riding trains or buses, I usually hit the road with a buddy, but they've stopped doing that since it's too far. Until something more convenient comes along, maybe I should wait.

Funny, I was just about to inquire about the Universal brand and its familiarity with the public. 185HR15s were the largest size I could find, and I didn't recognize the brand. I appreciate your help.

It seems that there are no Vredestein 185R15 tires available in the United States; I checked with Coker, Summitracing, Universal, Lucas Classic, etc. I've been told variously that we don't know when they'll arrive, that it'll be a few months, and that manufacturing problems mean I won't be able to buy them until midway through 2017. Now it appears like I'll have to settle with tracking down some 185/70R15 tires.

I appreciate your reply. The 185HR15 Dunlops I got online for $370 were more expensive than the 185VR15 Pirellis I had a few years ago by $9. I'm not acquainted with Vredestein, but I'll investigate your recommendation. The vehicle originally came with steel wheels, so I don't believe the additional 3/4" of rear clearance is a problem, but I'll double-check. Please accept my sincere appreciation

It is now time to begin tire purchasing. The originals had a diameter of 26.5 inches and a width of 7.28 millimeters, or 185R15. Currently, I am unable to rationalize spending $380 for a single tire of that size. Which current standard size is best? The most probable sizes are 195/70R15 (25.8 x 7.68) or 205/70R15 (26.3 x 8.07). Despite the 205 being the closest diameter, I've heard that installing bigger tires might have a negative impact on steering and handling. Is there any practical use for an extra 3/4" of width? Thanks

It's intriguing to learn the reasoning behind the engine ECU swap. We need the original error codes, so please send them along.

Maybe not, but because they already exist, the expense has been incurred. I've seen signs with out-of-date information, which isn't useful and undermines people's faith in that particular source of data. Concerning the idea to "mind your distance," I believe that for optimum impact, it would apply to a dynamic system. We have tried using static road signs and random chevrons with mixed results. Front-facing active speed signs were selected as the most effective traffic calming tool, despite being costly and producing no revenue in any way. But what if sensors caused a gantry sign to read "too close"? Or would that serve just to divert attention?

As I slowly made my way down the M25 this morning, I noticed that the new information boards were displaying somewhat bland messages. What would you prefer to see shown, if anything, if there wasn't a time- and location-sensitive notification, like big tailbacks after the next junction? Moving clockwise from J2, the message is "Red X means the lane is closed - don't use it." Even after the road construction has been removed, revealing four or more lanes, plus a hard shoulder, traffic continues to favor the rightmost lanes. How effective do you think "keep left unless overtaking" would be?

Someone may have spilled a corrosive substance and forgotten to wipe it up; was the braking fluid reservoir or the battery in the area?

Good job, man, fair play. The discs and pads need to be completed, and then we'll see what happens. The rack bush seems like it may be the problem if there is still anything wrong with the steering (I believe mine is alright, the steering looks to judder since the entire vehicle is running), so thanks!

Please accept my membership application; I have the same issues. My new 2018 BMW F31 335d xdrive is fantastic; I couldn't be happier with my purchase. The juddering and the clunk are both a problem for me. I've been told that the juddering is caused by warped discs, therefore I plan on replacing the discs and pads in the front. I have no idea what causes the clunk, but it does occur when I turn to the right before pulling off. Mine shudders more from 60-40 and not really noticeable 20-30mph, so I didn't even notice when I bought it because we could only test drive at those speeds during our local inspection. The shop I bought it from has said they will change the discs and pads for free or cover the cost as they messed up by not noticing. To get a second assessment and price, I took my BMW to a separate repair shop that focuses on luxury brands. I was taken aback when he told me it would cost £700 to replace the front discs and pads, but then I remembered that he gets genuine BMW components. I hate to steal your thunder, but maybe my inquiries might be of use to you as well...Does it make sense for me to get the discs and pads online, then have them fitted and reimbursed by the store where I originally purchased the item? I'd be concerned that they'd end up with some low-quality specimens. I was wondering whether there was much of a difference between different brands of discs and pads, or if the cheap ones would suffice. I'd like high-quality ones; I don't want top-tier functionality, but I also don't want the cheapest ones. I'd want anything in the middle to upper price range. According to the man at my garage, I need 340x30 tires. I'd be grateful for any help you could provide.

They are substantially more refined and hence much more suitable for extensive road usage. They're also more strong and react well to alterations. The Tdi's are fantastic. One of mine is substantially altered, while the other is not. The power delivery is excellent. However, the Td5s provide far more power. With a few modifications, the Td5 can provide more than 50% more power to the wheels. However, a Td5 will most likely cost a little more for a similar condition car. The bodywork isn't any thinner gauge either, and it rots just as badly as a Tdi on the cross member. ABS and TCS are also available on the Td5. The ABS may come in helpful if you tow a lot, and the TCS improves off-road performance significantly. But since it was a choice, not everyone had it. The TCS, on the other hand, isn't much. Even without a Defender, this vehicle is fantastic off-road.

I now have two 200Tdis and a 300Tdi in the past. The Td5 is a superior engine dynamically in every respect. Anyone who tells you otherwise has presumably never driven one. The Td5-powered automobiles with problems that have nothing to do with the engine make up a large portion of the news. I'm not going to pretend it doesn't have any flaws. Not many vehicles' motors can make that claim. However, several instances of really well-worn ones may be found. Therefore, it seems that they are long-lasting for many people. Have you also done your caravan test if this is your first vehicle?

My hurricanes are 18 inches in diameter. Which is it, four or five? How different would it be, exactly?

I regret not being able to continue this conversation. I'm been getting slaughtered at work. But, I can ask this short inquiries. What kind of existence can you anticipate from MT versus AT?