keithmerc220

Impressive automobile with commendable specifications—akin to a discreet E53, I presume.

There is no red button; nevertheless, my device has a black button.

I believe I can extract the shaft and then assess for any play inside the transmission connection. The seal is also leaking, resulting in fluid accumulation, which requires further inspection. It occurs in every gear, hence...

The vehicle has a manual gearbox, the wheel bearing exhibits no discernible looseness, and I do not detect any noise while it is spun. The noise is only audible while the vehicle is in gear and operating at a greater speed. The boots are satisfactory; however, there is a little lateral movement, which I believe is typical. I am unable to perceive any sound at low speeds.

There is an absence of clicking or banging throughout the turning process. The vibration intensifies with each session as speed rises; nevertheless, it stabilizes at around 85 miles per hour. At the age of 60, it is the most unfavorable. The issue is located on the driver's side, since halting the rotation of that wheel eliminates the vibration in the steering wheel. The sound seems to originate from the transmission; but, due to an exhaust leak, it is rather difficult to discern. I believe it is located around the area where the shaft enters. The wheel hub seems secure, and when I rotate the tires individually, I do not hear any clicking. However, a considerable speed is required to initiate the clicking sound, so I may attach a drill to the axle nut once my return home.

In recent days, I have begun to hear a significant noise emanating from what I now identify as the transmitter. It seems to be the axle shaft output region. What is involved in the process of exchanging that? Should the side be removed when the shaft is extracted, or is it necessary to separate the case?

Obtain the pinout for the ECU and examine the power distribution. If they are definitively losing power, that is what I would examine.

Two transfer points. One of them provided the front of the automobile. The remaining materials include the fuse board. Is there an absence of electricity at the leap point? It should be continuously operational. Access the passenger footwell and detach the trim under the dashboard to locate the substantial red power supply line leading to the fuse board.

The glovebox is secured by many T20 Torx screws; moreover, it is necessary to detach the trim around the cup holders and remove the cup holders themselves. Prior to proceeding, verify the transfer points where the battery voltage exits the boot; there should be two: one directs to the jump point under the bonnet, while the other connects to the fuse board. There have been problems with the power supply at the fuse board; BMW issued a recall on this matter some years ago.

I would get a new one, since the pre-owned options are never inexpensive and difficult to locate.

Your vehicle is equipped with a firmer suspension and low-profile tires mounted on 19-inch wheels. Both contribute to the poor ride quality, among other factors.

Undoubtedly, that is the purpose of your insurance.

rather prevalent on the N engines. after a 100k every mile is a gift, personally i avoid them and would never buy a used example out of warranty. The quotation appears accurate; but, after the engine is removed, there is a possibility that other difficulties could be discovered and more components will be required. Similar to how lighter crankshafts may deform,

Understood - I was unaware that it would be included in the vehicle's service history (it is hardly a 'service' item, after all!), and I am astonished that Mercedes would be inclined to disclose a gearbox failure so soon to prospective buyers. I would not have anticipated that occurring in the UK, however I cannot be certain since I have never purchased a new vehicle.

How might a buyer of your automobile ascertain that the gearbox has been replaced?