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So that I can adjust the ride height, I just bought a Launch diagnostic tool.

Even though I'm 81 years old, I won't be sleeping tonight because there are no leaks and the ride is much better.

It has been a long time since I last did mine, but I'm still confused because I thought the pipe to bag had an O-ring.

In addition to the valve block and fittings, the new pump I purchased also came with "O" rings. For air spring bags, a "O" ring is not necessary. AI also mentioned that the black pipe connecting the compressor to the valve block had a 10 ml nut that, when unscrewed, would release pressure. Yet again, I am mistaken. In order to proceed, either use software deflation or release the red and blue lines.

Lol, AI is deceitful. You must have installed the new "O" rings to prevent leakage.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=BMW

Under hot weather conditions, the rear air bags failed to inflate and the compressor even came to a halt, likely as a result of thermal cut-out. Once again began working approximately one hour later. Finally decided to replace the rear air bags, compressor, and relay because the car is 8 years old and has 50,000 miles. Got a price of £1400 for these parts alone when I called a local supplier. When I asked about the price, they immediately brought up the BMW stock prices. I called BMW to get a quote for the entire job, and they said it would cost £3500 for three hours of labour. Holy cow! I opted to handle the task on my own. Purchased OEM components on eBay for a total of £217. I was able to complete the DIY job in just 5 hours after receiving parts that were visually identical to the ones on the car. The parts arrived after 2 days and the instructions were very detailed, thanks to Google AI and YouTube. I was surprised by how easy it was. Just one thing to keep in mind - the instructions state to "Inflate new air bags with the car jacked and wheels just touching the ground." That's all. No coding required. This is incorrect because the compressor cannot be activated by the ride height sensors unless the car is lowered below its normal ride height. Contrary to what Google suggests, neither the air bags nor the compressor have "Push fit" connections for airlines. My sincere wish is that this data will allow other people to cut costs just like mine. I should mention that the original compressor was actually manufactured in India and was not even badged as BMW.

😇

Much obliged; I shall take your advice and, fingers crossed, it will not break the bank. Once again, I am deeply grateful.

The same as before. Yes, you can start the engine without the belt. The alternator and anything else driven by the belt could be the problem, but if the noise goes, then you are on the right track because it could just be a tensioner.

Amazon.co.uk : BMW

I seriously doubt that BMW will extend any kind of assistance for a vehicle that is fourteen years old, regardless of its service history. It sounds more like something is going on with the belt run, so I would temporarily remove the aux belt and see if the noise continues.

Hello everyone, This is my first post since I recently purchased a 2012 320i with 65,000 miles. The engine bay is making me nervous, though. It may be the notorious n20 engine whine, but it seems louder close to the serpentine belt. Excellent maintenance has always been performed at the main dealer for this vehicle. Is it possible to request a refund from the main dealer, considering that the timing chain has been serviced every 5,000 to 6,000 miles by them? Any advice or assistance would be greatly appreciated. You have my utmost gratitude.

Under the driver's side of the car, there is a dpf that has been cleaned and removed. I deleted the swirl flaps because I thought they were the source of the problem, just like it happened on my Vito. Then I discovered that I needed to delete the EGR.

Do you have a DPF on your vehicle? For nineteen years, my 2007 Vito had an OM642 (with DPF) that was very similar; it went into limp mode frequently, but every time I turned the EML on, it was fine. Reasons for it were... Monitoring device for fuel pressure the EGR valve, the DPF pressure sensor A temperature sensor for MAS DPF Turbo shot (manifolds with delaminations) Additionally, the engine went into dead mode instead of limp mode due to a failed CPS. All of the aforementioned occurred prior to approximately 95,000 miles... completed nearly 100,000 additional miles thereafter without significant problems. No need to mess with the mapping or swirl flaps; DPF has always worked perfectly. If you can get yours fixed, good luck! When they're working properly, they're great engines.

Since I am not knowledgeable about mapping, I will have to take the mapping company at their word when they say that the ether delete was successfully completed. However, having used their services on other vehicles, I have faith in their abilities. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions you might have regarding the main issue, which is the exorbitant cost of transporting the vehicle back to the UK via ferry.

Codes that are present but not displayed can cause a myriad of problems, and poor quality remapping is no exception. There have been a few threads on this site where that has occurred.

Yes, I did clean the MAF sensor. I make it a point to do so once every twelve months when I change the oil and filter.

Truthfully, I had assumed that the swirl flaps were to blame for their deletion; my mapping colleague discovered the deletion, and neither his system nor my Icarsoft could reproduce the error codes.

Is the MAF sensor still dirty after you cleaned it? This was a common occurrence for my C250TD when I was using it.

Hi there, I just discovered that someone deleted the EGR system and swirl flaps from my 90k mileage car today. Upon startup, it will run for about 10–20 seconds before entering limp mode, from which it will not emerge.

Swirling flaps can make noise without actually throwing a code. I would like to know the car's mileage.

Errors detected on the scanner but no EML.

No engine management light is on. A mapping company used their diagnostics to look into the faults, and they found no codes. An icarsoft scanner was also used.

What kind of scanner did they use? Not all generic ones are able to detect MB-specific error codes. According to what @Matt865 mentioned, the EML will activate and display a fault code, either current or historical, if you are in limp mode.