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High noon That was really helpful; I intend to review it over the weekend, weather permitting. I might see if operating the roof while connected to a CTEK charger helps. Do you mean that the roof won't work if the heating element in the back window breaks? Much obliged.

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I wouldn't assume the motor has failed just yet; the fact that the windows lower and the roof enters sunroof mode indicate that the switch is being recognised. Instead, I'd investigate what's blocking the next step of the sequence. It's possible for the microswitches to seem to be in the right place without the roof module genuinely receiving the signal; thus, it's important to double-check their wiring in addition to the parcel shelf and boot levers, which you have previously examined. Because the roof is also dependent on position sensors, this is the exact point at which the sequence can be interrupted by a broken wire or malfunctioning sensor. Prior to purchasing any components, I would verify the battery voltage, fuse, and, ideally, have the roof module scanned for fault codes. The significance of the unlit switch indicator varies with the model, but it is still worth looking into. To get a feel for the reading, I recommend comparing the resistance to the functioning mirror first. The heater may or may not be functioning properly even though the connection shows continuity and voltage. It may be the glass's heating element that has broken if the wiring is fine. Have dealt with this type of thing previously, so it's worth seeing if the glass itself needs fixing. Replacement options can be found at https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/wing-mirror-10666/land-rover/range-rover/range-rover-iii-lm. Because electrochromic mirrors can vary in specification, it is important to select the right one for your 2012 model.

I appreciate it; I'll be sure to check the fuses after I get the operations manual I ordered.

Good day, As a first step, I'd make sure the folding roof's fuse is ok. If the roof was functioning properly before and the switch is not illuminated, this could be a simple and inexpensive solution. Wishing you all the best

Good afternoon! I recently purchased a car from a private seller. The roof was working fine before, but now, when my wife takes it out for a spin, the roof won't go down, no matter what I do. I've also noticed that there isn't a light next to the toggle switch, which is a bit of a mystery. I've checked the boot and parcel shelf, and the levers go down, but that's about it. I've tried central locking and window reset, and I've even tried pushing the roof back into sunroof mode to make sure it's fully in. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Identifying the best engine for your needs Those vehicles must have 642 horsepower if you're comparing them. If we now compare the 204 to the 651, and the 211 to the 646, we can see that the 211 is an even better vehicle. An easy-out EGR, no DPF, and no AdBlu. Gets more than 50 mpg with ease. I can't make up my mind whether to sell the Viano (651 model) or the S211 (646 model). I think it would be reliable to run the 211 for a while. However, my heart is arguing because it's retro.

Energy drink or petrol? For the C-Class, 2014 was a new model year. While W205 will be used for later models, W204 will be used for earlier ones. The W204 and W205 gas-powered vehicles shared the same M274 engine, but the W205 had a 2.0-liter tank instead of 1.6-liters. This diesel vehicle switched from CDI (ULEZ charge applies but no AdBlue) to d (ULEZ charge applies but no AdBlue) mode. You should verify if the vehicle is E220CDI (no AdBlue) or E220d (AdBlue) since the W212 runs until 2016 and also got the AdBlue version of the OM651 in 2014. Unfortunately, the E220 petrol is likely to use the less-than-ideal M271 engine.

Two disclaimers: professional cab drivers from all over the globe can attest that covering 300,000 miles in an E is simple and inexpensive. Furthermore, Madame Cholet has a preference for more compact vehicles, such as the C class, because she rarely sees passengers in the rear.

I would gladly take another W211 class over an S204 C class since I have already taken both of them. Much more pleasant, and occasionally a better alternative, if three people need to ride in the back. The C class is fine in its own right, but the E is the superior all-arounder.

That is a valid concern. Would consider both options, though upper management may occasionally insist on having three in the back.

Make sure the subframe is in good shape when the vehicle is this old.

Do you have a specific body type in mind? If so, I can help you out. The E coupe is a high-quality C-class model.

Also, it depends on my budget and the cars that are currently on sale.

Having driven both, I can say without a doubt that the E-Class has the more roomy and, on the whole, better interior. However, a 2014 C Class is not a vehicle I am familiar with.

If you have any ideas about C and E classes that are for sale, starting in 2014 and going up to around 6K to 8K, please share them with me because I need to change cars. It would be great if it was close to Preston, but I might ask a member to have a look first.

When I try to enter my vehicle identification number (VIN) in the format it appears on my title, it says that number does not exist.

You still haven't mentioned the model. Your 'garage' in your profile will be visible below all posts, so there's no need to update it.

That's something I can handle. I recognise that sound as well. The site advised me to start a new thread instead of reviving an old one, so I went back to this post that I made months—if not years—ago. I'm currently motivated to install a splitter on my car.

Have a look at Partsouq; they typically have fairly detailed exploded views. No longer can you skip entering your VIN.

My car's front bumper is missing a piece, and I can't seem to find it. This is the small splitter that was originally attached to the base of the front bumper. I was reversing when I caught it on a high kerb, yanking off the aftermarket splitter and sending it flying forward. I'm trying to find a replacement part for my car by looking at the parts breakdown, but the prices range from thirty euros to five hundred. I fail to comprehend. Prior to placing the shattered component in the recycling bin, I neglected to consider checking it for damage. Both the image and its location remain elusive to me. The closest Renault garage wanted €750 for a brand new front bumper, and they wouldn't sell me anything else. Just the small piece under the surface will do. I need someone's assistance identifying this item.

If I were you, I'd swap out the cable. The usual explanation.

It's the right cable; I've exhausted all other options. I have attempted unpairing the cable, turning off VPN on my phone, and nothing has helped me connect using the Apple cable.

Could you please try pairing your phone again after unpairing it?

Thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide; I'm utilising a data cable to connect my 2020 150d to the system, but when I do, the info screen does not display CarPlay.