Assist required with a problem that won't start

[Blu_Ray_UK2007]

ey there! I just acquired a 2007 R56 Cooper S. The test drive was great, however the seller wanted it gone fast because he was going on a six-month work trip (which I verified). Any advice?
We drove out after agreeing on a price—which was ridiculously low—but the vehicle suddenly stopped working on me after just 4.6 miles.I am an old-school mechanic who is familiar with carbs and distributors, so I thought this would be easy. However, it ran out of fuel when I was on a busy road, and I tried to start it until the battery died. Now, two weeks later, I have bought a second-running R56 Chevy to try to fix it.

It starts up and runs smoothly, but that's about it.

Following is a rundown of everything I've done thus far; I've swapped out all the parts for runners and it still operates, however a quick Google search revealed that the HPFP change was unsuccessful.

The reader displays 27ce codes.

Revised hpfp
Revised lpfp to
Vanos solenoid replaced
Replaced the camera's sensor
Modified maf sensors

I used the setting tool to verify the timing, and it was perfect.

During priming and cranking, 12v at LPFP

Ignite all four spark plugs

Has the sensation of exhaust pressure when turning the crank

Cold compression test results show 155 to 166 psi.

I use the easy start method, however it only moistens the plugs.

Both horsepower and torque gages show fuel rail pressures of 1.3 mpa on the reader and 5.1 mpa on the runner.

The only sensors I haven't switched out yet are the ones for fuel rail pressure and crank, and now I don't know what to do.

Who can provide me a hand?

[Blu_Ray_UK2007]

Amazon.com

[cumblechook22]

You need compression levels above 190 psi for a turbo, which is currently low. I find it interesting that brake cleaner/easy start only moistens the plugs, yet having spark is helpful.

Were the sensors you swapped out OEM parts from a local retailer or authentic BMW parts? I won't claim otherwise, but with all the fake stuff floating around, it's worth verifying.

[Blu_Ray_UK2007]

They were all removed from a running vehicle, and the sensors that were in there were likewise tested on the running vehicle and found to be in working order.

[cumblechook22]

Well done, you've ruled out that avenue 👍.

[clk320x4]

The smoke machine, along with a reliable scan tool and real-time data, will make pinpointing easier. To test whether the problem lies with the pump or the cracked pipe, try disconnecting the fuel line that runs from the high-pressure pump to the fuel rail; in rare cases, this may work.

[Blu_Ray_UK2007]

Based on my experience with my other mini, I know that the pump isn't the problem. After reviewing the scan tool's data, I've narrowed it down to one issue: the fuel rail pressure is only 1.3 mpa, while it's 5.2 mpa on my other mini. My only remaining guess is that the fuel rail pressure sensor is giving a false reading and preventing the engine from starting.