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Which lubricant should be used for the internal tailboard lift motor?

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After many months, I have finally taken the time to remove a malfunctioning one and will now proceed to install a pre-owned tailboard lift motor. Prior to desiring longevity, I must ensure that this particular item is well lubricated.
Upon examining the photograph, it is evident that there is an unlubricated or inappropriately lubricated metal and plastic gear located at the top. The primary gear has window regulator style teeth and retains a little layer of grease from its original manufacturing in 2012. Beneath it is a little white gear coated with aged, yellowish oil residue.
Which lubricant should I apply in certain areas to ensure the long-term functioning of the mechanism?
Thank you for your attention.

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What are the recommendations of MB?
Does the white cog function as the primary driving mechanism?
What specific aspect caused the prior one to be unsuccessful?

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I was hoping someone might provide the MB advice to avoid me from having to contact MB.
I am uncertain about whether the white cog operates the primary mechanism. It is possible that it functions in opposition to a metal gear, but I will examine it again to confirm.
The ball detached from its connection to the gear, causing the casing of the motor to fracture where it was punctured.
Tonight, I may examine the damaged one to determine its cause.

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This is a disastrous malfunction, and it seems that it may have been caused by an excessive load on the gearbox's output. I recommend examining this issue thoroughly before to adding a new component, since there is a possibility of it happening again.

Regarding the appropriate lubricant. If I don't have a particular product suggestion, I would consider using a somewhat light (NLGI#1) non EP grease that comes in a tin, tub, or cartridge. I would apply it using a tool similar to a spatula. If given the option of selecting a thickening or soap base, the aluminium complex is an excellent choice due to its smooth and flowing consistency. Avoid being enticed by 'lithium' grease - the majority of greases you come across will be lithium-based. Also, refrain from using aerosols unless you are very positive that the carrier (most likely a solvent) will not harm the plastic components or enable the grease to penetrate the motor.

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Are you referring to a complex or controversial issue?
I accessed the malfunctioning device. Most likely caused by the gradual deterioration from use and maybe by individuals manually helping with the tailboard over time.
It is likely that the leg with the ball and socket became free from the main gear, causing movement. As a result, the ball twisted out of and damaged the socket. Subsequently, it was pressed against the motor housing and, with continued usage, became trapped and broke the housing.

The white cog below is powered by the electric motor. The primary mobile component, equipped with teeth, is propelled by a metallic gear located underneath the four cog assembly.

There is no lubrication present on the black plastic gear on top or on the four cog section of both the damaged unit and the replacement used one. There is a little amount of material on the top lid of the device where it attaches to two mounting points.

Furthermore, there are no additional damaged components. All other internal components seem to be in good condition.

If I were to refrain from using the MB grease option, is there an alternative available at motor factors that can be purchased without a prescription for the metal and plastic components?

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I considered the possibility that the devastating force originated from a different direction or was caused by excessive strain, such as being trapped under ice or covered in snow.
I must admit that I am unable to comprehend the intricacies of the system. However, the teeth on the white cog seem fragile in comparison to the others. Nevertheless, I must admit that I do not fully understand its modus operandi.

The application of OEM grease may be described succinctly as frugal.

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The devastating force likely resulted from years of someone attempting to physically open or shut it forcefully. When the lever forcefully penetrated the housing, it is possible that I unintentionally did this due to my panicked actions in the rain. The lever refused to shut since the ball had detached from the main gear.

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I still lack comprehension of the subject matter.
However, I have made progress in my understanding. I have realised that what I first believed to be the motor is really something else, and the white cog is actually a component of a worm drive. This discovery significantly alters the situation. Worm drives have significant friction at the point where the worm and the plastic wheel come into contact, which should be avoided to prevent heat generation. I want precise details on the suggested lubricant before contemplating an alternative option. The pertinent information may be found in the Technical Data Sheet for the product. Kindly provide a hyperlink to the item in question, and I will thoroughly examine it.

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Is this considered a legitimate 'service item' according to Mercedes Benz? Typically, drive units of this kind are sold as a single part by dealers, without including any internal components.

Typically, an innovative individual on the internet provides "home made" components to individuals who want to handle their own repairs.

In some drives, such as this one, the gear made of 'plastic' is intentionally engineered to be sacrificial. It serves as the weak point that is meant to break when the mechanism is subjected to excessive stress.

Without any particular relevance or connection. One of the machines I often use features a gearbox with an electrically operated overload mechanism, followed by a clutch. In the event of a malfunction, a brass pin shears off, causing the whole system to come to a relatively safe halt.

On many occasions, I have arrived to the site to see that the local experts had already started dismantling the whole machine, with bits scattered around, only to realise much later that the shear pin was already broken.

Men often neglect to read the instruction manual.

The thread hijack has ended.


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