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V8 Coolant System for the 2017 Range Rover


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Okay, as some of you may recall, I installed a water pump and upgraded all of my coolant pipes to aluminium. It was a problem-free summer. I haven't added coolant since topping it up in the autumn, so it was strange that I had to do it recently. Even though it's winter where I am, I detected the fragrance of coolant and did not detect any leaks after pressurising the system. The headgasket isn't leaking, either.

Tomorrow, when it's cold, I'll bleed the system on the reservoir as well and top it off. I should have done that earlier. I may have experienced a vaporous state.


I was wondering if the supercharger coolant was on its own loop or if it was mixed all together. I get that the answer is affirmative when taken as a whole, but I don't see why, when the water temperature is normal but the lines leading to the supercharger are very cold, the electric pump is circulating this icy water to keep the supercharger running smoothly, and the water lines are connected to the main coolant line. Two frontal, miniature radiators are used to circulate water using an electric pump that is part of the supercharger.

Just so we're clear, the coolant isn't mixing with the other coolant.

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Effectively, the intercooler circuit is on its own.

In this case, it is displayed inverted. The intercooler pump is connected to the top hose, while the two smaller hoses extend from the intercoolers. It is essentially its own circuit, with the exception of a little branch off the radiator hose, that is only connected to aid in filling and bleeding.

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Yes, it is absolutely insane that the side Rads effectively cool the supercharger. Either there's a leak or I didn't fill it correctly. It took two top-offs before my wife's Fpace's leak became apparent on the front auxiliary cooling system, which is somewhat to the front. I smelt coolant where the car was, so I checked for leaks, but thus yet, nothing has come up.

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I have two points to make:

1. In addition to the plastic pipes in the front and under the supercharger, did you also replace the crossover pipe in the back? In my initial attempt, I only addressed the two primary leaks at the front. However, upon further inspection with a scope, I discovered fluid beneath the supercharger and on the gearbox housing. This led me to the realisation that I needed to address the crossover pipe and the one that connects the oil cooler to the underside of the supercharger. Well, would you believe it? Fluid still needed to be added. At last, I located the source of the leak: the little line exiting the thermostat casing. Then, praise the Lord, it will be sealed. By the way, aside from the thermostat housing, pressure testing was never really useful in locating the other leaks. Under pressure, it is difficult to notice them because either the valley beneath the supercharger or the drop pan beneath the vehicle collects the drips.


2. There are several posts regarding this, but a bleeding process can be used to remove air. There are two ways I do it: first, when I have the vacuum bleeder available; second, after the fact; and third, when I don't. Obtaining a pneumatic vacuum bleeder is clearly the optimal method for removing air from the many air pockets found in the block's hoses and water jackets. The steps to do that are rather obvious. Halfway through, loosen the bolts on the reservoir and raise it as high as possible to make it the system's highest point. Turn off the engine and remove water from each bleeder by cracking open each one, including the one on the water bottle. Before starting the engine and bleeding everything again, make sure the coolant container is full. Raise the temperature of the engine and turn up the heat. After a few minutes of running, you should see solid heat emanating from the vents. After that, you should crack the bleeders again. Refill fluid reservoir and reassemble. Keep it on the road for a week, and then fill up the fluids and crack bleeders again. Additional problems may arise if you continue to experience air.

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You did everything; thanks for the info. Everything was done in August with the blower and without a hitch! Along with the new water pump, I also constructed the one at the rear out of aluminium. I must have underfilled it, let some air out, and then let it fall. It has worked wonderfully ever since I top-filled it using the bleed screws. Unfortunately, I disconnected the tube that goes to the top of the radiator because I failed to see the bleed screw in the coolant reservoir. There is absolutely no air in the coolant reservoir after today's drive. I did not realise there was no air in it the first time I filled it, but now I know better. Even after an hour on the road today, it was still showing as max queue when I returned home.

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