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Driver side axle bearing? Excessive noise


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In recent days, I have begun to hear a significant noise emanating from what I now identify as the transmitter. It seems to be the axle shaft output region.

What is involved in the process of exchanging that? Should the side be removed when the shaft is extracted, or is it necessary to separate the case?

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Automatic or manual transmission? Are you certain that the noise is originating from the transmission? Could the noise be solely attributed to the CV axle shaft? Or maybe the genuine wheel hub spindle bearing? Could you perhaps provide a video including high-quality audio of the noise?

I have completed the removal of both the wheel hub spindle bearing and the CV axle. The CV axle is removed from the gearbox, and it is advisable to replace the round seal while access is available.


Does the noise intensify or vibrate more as speed increases? If that is the case, it is likely the wheel hub spindle bearing, but the original equipment manufacturer bearing never fails in the Gen 9 Corolla. Is there a clicking or banging sound, particularly during turns? If that is the case, it is likely the CV axle shaft. The original equipment Toyota axles are much superior in quality compared to aftermarket CV axle shafts, but at a greater cost; alternatively, you may explore local shops that provide axle shaft rebuilding services.

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There is an absence of clicking or banging throughout the turning process. The vibration intensifies with each session as speed rises; nevertheless, it stabilizes at around 85 miles per hour.

At the age of 60, it is the most unfavorable.


The issue is located on the driver's side, since halting the rotation of that wheel eliminates the vibration in the steering wheel.

The sound seems to originate from the transmission; but, due to an exhaust leak, it is rather difficult to discern. I believe it is located around the area where the shaft enters.


The wheel hub seems secure, and when I rotate the tires individually, I do not hear any clicking. However, a considerable speed is required to initiate the clicking sound, so I may attach a drill to the axle nut once my return home.

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No, do not use a drill on the axle nut if you are referring to an impact wrench. This action should only be undertaken if you are certain that you are replacing the hub spindle wheel bearing and only for its removal. Upon replacing the bearing, the axle nut must be tightened using hand tools and a torque wrench. To achieve speed, use a low-powered impact on the lowest setting until it is almost seated, then manually tighten it using a torque wrench. Indeed, many may use an impact on it, but it is inadvisable since the impact disrupts the ball bearings inside, so diminishing their lifespan.

A bearing may be defective even in the absence of clicking sounds. To assess the bearing, rotate the wheel and compare the auditory output with that of the wheel on the passenger side. Additionally, you may detach the wheel and rotate the hub on both sides to assess the auditory differences. A defective wheel bearing produces a dry rubbing or friction noise rather than a quieter, smooth rotation. Removing the caliper first helps facilitate the process, since it may be difficult to work with the brake pads on. Bearings may produce a howling noise when speed increases while driving.


Examine your CV axle for any apparent damage. Are any of the boots damaged and leaking grease? Are the CV axles genuine stock parts or aftermarket components? This question is significant.

Automatic or manual transmission?

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The vehicle has a manual gearbox, the wheel bearing exhibits no discernible looseness, and I do not detect any noise while it is spun. The noise is only audible while the vehicle is in gear and operating at a greater speed.

The boots are satisfactory; however, there is a little lateral movement, which I believe is typical. I am unable to perceive any sound at low speeds.

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A bearing need not be loose to be defective. I had defective rear bearings that were not loose, hence the traditional method of gripping the tires at 9 and 3, or 12 and 6, may provide misleading results. In this instance, it does not seem to be wheel bearings based on your description, except for the increasing noise with speed, which is a common indicator of faulty wheel bearings.

My expertise is only with automatic transmissions; thus, I hope someone knowledgeable in manual transmissions may contribute to this discussion.

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