QuirkEinstein

You did everything; thanks for the info. Everything was done in August with the blower and without a hitch! Along with the new water pump, I also constructed the one at the rear out of aluminium. I must have underfilled it, let some air out, and then let it fall. It has worked wonderfully ever since I top-filled it using the bleed screws. Unfortunately, I disconnected the tube that goes to the top of the radiator because I failed to see the bleed screw in the coolant reservoir. There is absolutely no air in the coolant reservoir after today's drive. I did not realise there was no air in it the first time I filled it, but now I know better. Even after an hour on the road today, it was still showing as max queue when I returned home.

Yes, it is absolutely insane that the side Rads effectively cool the supercharger. Either there's a leak or I didn't fill it correctly. It took two top-offs before my wife's Fpace's leak became apparent on the front auxiliary cooling system, which is somewhat to the front. I smelt coolant where the car was, so I checked for leaks, but thus yet, nothing has come up.

Okay, as some of you may recall, I installed a water pump and upgraded all of my coolant pipes to aluminium. It was a problem-free summer. I haven't added coolant since topping it up in the autumn, so it was strange that I had to do it recently. Even though it's winter where I am, I detected the fragrance of coolant and did not detect any leaks after pressurising the system. The headgasket isn't leaking, either. Tomorrow, when it's cold, I'll bleed the system on the reservoir as well and top it off. I should have done that earlier. I may have experienced a vaporous state. I was wondering if the supercharger coolant was on its own loop or if it was mixed all together. I get that the answer is affirmative when taken as a whole, but I don't see why, when the water temperature is normal but the lines leading to the supercharger are very cold, the electric pump is circulating this icy water to keep the supercharger running smoothly, and the water lines are connected to the main coolant line. Two frontal, miniature radiators are used to circulate water using an electric pump that is part of the supercharger. Just so we're clear, the coolant isn't mixing with the other coolant.

The issue is in the fact that it is ultimately the responsibility of the prior owner to eliminate their data, which raises the question of why one would neglect to do so, particularly when engaging with third-party garages. Considering the quantity of vehicles, it is unreasonable to anticipate that they possess knowledge of all procedures... Examine the seven-year warranty on that item. One thing is certain: deleting a previous user will not render the car inoperable. A default user exists.

Howdy, pal! It was that is why I had them changed.

Salutations everyone, So far, no one at two different local repair shops has been able to pinpoint the source of the terrible noise emanating from the back driver side wheel. Even when weighted, it cannot be reproduced on a ramp. Brand new discs and pads. Lots of people have looked at it, and nothing seems to fit. Not to the point of disassembling it to reach the drive shaft, but I believe all other options were exhausted. I was wondering if anyone experienced this problem and might offer some advice.

Thank you. Thus, it has a belt. How about intervals of service?

I recently purchased a car with 65,000 miles and no prior timing belt issues. When I called Perry's Kia dealer, they informed me that the interval is 190k. This is difficult for me to believe, and my responses have been contradictory. Does anyone know for sure if it has a chain or a belt (dry or wet)? Regards in advance. Mild hybrid Kia Sportage 1.6 diesel GT Line S.

Greetings to all, I am considering a 2011 BMW 325d Touring with a 3.0L engine and require a verification of its suitability. Although it has considerable miles, the maintenance history appears exceptionally robust. The Specifications: Model: BMW 325d Touring (Automatic Transmission, 6-Speed) Engine: 3.0 Diesel (Standard: 204 HP / Modified: 314 HP & 650 NM) Mileage: 340,000 kilometres (about 211,000 miles) Modifications: ECU Calibration and Gearbox Optimisation (xHP or equivalent) The Positive Aspects: Timing chain rebuilt at 325,000 kilometres (significant advantage!). Comprehensive service history with revenues amounting to over 100,000 DKK (~€13,500). Recently serviced and possesses a valid MOT. Excellent specifications: Panoramic roof, Xenon headlights, leather upholstery, navigation system, parking distance control. The Capture: It is offered as a wholesale/trade-in vehicle ("Afhentning"), signifying the absence of a dealer warranty. It is significantly modified, with an increase from 204 HP to 314 HP. The vehicle appears immaculate both internally and externally. Considering the new timing chain and service history, would you deem this a reasonable purchase, or does the combination of 340,000 miles and extensive tuning pose a significant risk? I appreciate your assistance in advance.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=timing chain&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512Xc076a4d88c761eda30903ca4067674e2&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

Thank you. I will disassemble the pump this weekend to inspect it and the sprocket cam for signs of wear. A new Pierberg pump, following multiple model revisions, has ostensibly resolved the issues associated with earlier versions; yet, I remain apprehensive about the potential, albeit unlikely, risk of foreign objects entering the engine and interfering with the timing chain.

I have not experienced much success with Haynes manuals, as they often lack sufficient data on certain topics; but, I will attempt to utilise one.

I recently acquired a 1986 W124 300D, featuring a single previous owner and equipped with an OM 603.912 engine. The vacuum pump and timing chain should be inspected at 400,000 kilometres, despite its current optimal performance. Regrettably, the owner did not maintain the service records, and considering the issues encountered with pump failures and debris entangling the timing chain, inspecting the pump is of utmost importance. Is there a suggested alternative for bulletproofing? Has anyone installed an electric pump or alternator with a connected vacuum pump, similar to Japanese truck configurations? Could someone perhaps recommend a workshop handbook for this vehicle and engine? All the information I have encountered online pertains to American vehicles equipped with turbocharged engines. I appreciate your assistance in advance.

Today, I had a younger, technologically inclined sales representative at the dealership attempt to locate the volume control for it. After attempting to change it, he appeared to believe that the "chime" warning sound was solely designed to be either on or off, with no discernible volume control available. I will have the technicians examine it when I rotate the tires at the dealership shortly. Remains enigmatic!...