Cylinder Master

[keithmerc220]

Hi there!
My 1998 Land Rover Discovery has many miles. I started it and had no braking pressure. My reservoir was dry and the paint beneath the master cylinder was bubbling. I suspect that block is leaking. I'm comfortable replacing components now. I've done so and read/watched various forums/videos on how to change the master cylinder. That's OK. My current queries are. Should I repair my master cylinder or acquire a rebuild kit to replace the seals? Where should I get one? (I discovered previous boards with this subject, but a lot of the links are defunct these days, fortunate 8 appears a front runner as far as I was able to find) Finally, is it worth replacing the soft brake lines now because I will have to bleed the braking system anyway? I'm interested how others feel about braded brake cables vs. conventional brake lines, and whether they're worth replacing before they break. I got the rover two years ago from a technician who went over the wiring and removed several prior "fixes." I believe the person I purchased it from and his list of repairs since he worked at a respectable shop I had been sending one of my older vehicles to for years. Most were routine maintenance. He raised the vehicle and changed the brake lines, but he made them himself. The vehicle was 7 years old then. Thanks in advance. I've already made some educated selections based on prior forums, but some of that information is now a few years old and scarce. I'm glad I found this forum after purchasing the vehicle. Your informative write-ups and calm demeanour have helped me wrench. Thanks again! Good luck!

[Howard_silver]

Just now, keithmerc220 said:

Hi there!
My 1998 Land Rover Discovery has many miles. I started it and had no braking pressure. My reservoir was dry and the paint beneath the master cylinder was bubbling. I suspect that block is leaking. 

replaced I made mine about seven years ago because my hardlines were rusting. It's still working great, but getting the flanges ready took skill, patience, and a few tries.
I wouldn't buy anything until you know for sure where the leak is. The paint bubbles will cause a lot of rust, so you should take care of them as soon as possible. They are also a sign of a continuing problem in the system. It may not be a bad MC, but a bad joint on the DIY lines. check all of the links.
I bought my MC on EBAY and got lucky because it was good. Don't buy cheap aftermarket brands like Dorman, which use cheap rubber inside and will give you ghosting problems. If you can, get one from AutoZone or a local store that lets you return things. I hate ACDelco, but it might be your best bet at AutoZone.
Note that when the brakes on these cars are working perfectly, they're about as good as a 25-year-old Honda with 25-year-old brake fluid. Just so you know.

[developer]

If you desire good brakes, upgrading to defender callipers (front) is recommended. In the recent years, I've done this to both my D1s and RRC. Be aware that the RRC has a vented disc whereas the D1 does not. Make sure you get the calliper for vented discs before upgrading to RRC vented discs. Vented fade is reduced, making it ideal for towing and heavy loads. The improvement is dramatic.

[keithmerc220]

Oh, the brakes had obviously seen better days in the past. They were definitely not the finest thing in the world. When I tried to drive it, I saw that my driveway had a little incline to it. After shifting it into drive and applying pressure to the brake, it began moving forward. After guiding it back into place with the emergency brake, I got out to survey the area. Since no fluid is reaching the ground, this indicates that it is not coming from any of the existing lines or callipers. I simply decided that since I was going to have to bleed the brakes anyhow, I may as well consider replacing the lines. To my relief, the car shows very little rust if any at all. In the interim, to keep everything looking their best, I gave the areas a quick cleaning with brake clean and a coat of rustoleum. The fluid is located on the underside of the master cylinder, and it leaks out of the point of connection that the cylinder has with the brake booster. There is a possibility that the bottom of the reservoir has fractured. Haven't taken anything apart yet. Since it is not my primary mode of transportation, I have some time to become familiar with it. Would simply rather purchase something once and have to weep over it just once. I have done some research on the defender brakes, but unfortunately, they are not within my price range at this time. That was intended to be a modification added in the not too distant future. It is also important to note that I refilled the reservoir in an effort to restore some pressure to the system and determine whether or not it was actively pushing fluid out of anywhere while the machine was operating. I was unable to locate any leaks using this method, but when I checked the levels the following day, they had decreased and fluid was once again on the vacuum booster. At the moment, there are rags stacked underneath it.

[MrGreedy]

I bought a Master Cylinder from Lucky8 and attempted to install it in my 1998 Honda Accord, but the sub-zero temperatures prevented me from finishing the job. The business that completed the work has a good reputation. The brakes were completely seized when I picked it up the next day. After I went back inside, they took it for a test run outside. Lines were bled again once it came back inside. It was the same for approximately three months. Once again, after a few months, I had to replace the MC. I found MC of a different brand that worked for a whole year.

The moral of the story is to fix the original. I really hope so!! 

[keithmerc220]

Just now, MrGreedy said:

I bought a Master Cylinder from Lucky8 and attempted to install it in my 1998 Honda Accord, but the sub-zero temperatures prevented me from finishing the job. The business that completed the work has a good reputation. The brakes were completely seized when I picked it up the next day. After I went back inside, they took it for a test run outside. Lines were bled again once it came back inside. It was the same for approximately three months. Once again, after a few months, I had to replace the MC. I found MC of a different brand that worked for a whole year.

The moral of the story is to fix the original. I really hope so!! 

Good to know. I found a new master cylinder for less money than a kit to fix it. I keep all the parts, even the ones that went back, in case I ever need to rebuild and replace. This way, the original kit will still be there if I ever need it. This weekend, I'm going to start ripping everything apart. I know enough to be dangerous, so if you hear on the news that the brakes on an Oxford Blue Discovery went out, know that I died doing what I loved. Tinkering!

[Alex1978]

Just now, keithmerc220 said:

Good to know. I found a new master cylinder for less money than a kit to fix it. I keep all the parts, even the ones that went back, in case I ever need to rebuild and replace. This way, the original kit will still be there if I ever need it. This weekend, I'm going to start ripping everything apart. I know enough to be dangerous, so if you hear on the news that the brakes on an Oxford Blue Discovery went out, know that I died doing what I loved. Tinkering!

It's amusing to hear that. One advantage I see with these trucks is that several failures may occur without major consequences.

[Allan8932]

1 minute ago, Alex1978 said:

It's amusing to hear that. One advantage I see with these trucks is that several failures may occur without major consequences.

Exactly