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Wishbone bracket at the bottom


DreamWeaver

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Hello everyone, I took the car for a brief drive to test the new radiator and fan.

On the way back, the steering felt a little off, so I pulled over to inspect it.

I discovered that the bracket that secures the lower wishbone had shifted, and I had lost several screws along the way. See image

Arrow in red where the bracket should be.

The blue arrow bolt that holds the bracket in position is missing its head, and the bracket has risen.

The fastener on the green arrow bolt that passes through the wishbone and bracket has been removed.

All fasteners possessed lock nuts. Should I weld this bracket in position, or should I attempt to insert another bolt? Would it also be a good idea to disassemble it to ensure there is no additional injury to the bushes?

prez2.jpg

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There are an overwhelming number of problems with it. Bush has a weathered appearance. It seems too quick to bolt through the undergrowth. Following the passage of the nut that secures it, there should be three threads visible. The hole in the bracket that formerly accommodated the identical bolt is now too large. There is an excessive distance between the return on the bracket and the position of the bolt used to hold down the bracket. And is only one bolt. Is it the appropriate length? Did it not also display any loose threads once it was done being stitched?

After confirming the location of the shims that adjust the fore and aft position of the wishbone end, I would weld it into place. You will need a longer wishbone bolt with a minimum strength of 8.8 as well as a new bush. Ream all of the holes to ensure that the bolt will fit snugly, then choose the appropriate bolt.

If you are merely going to be fastening the bracket to the wall, place two bolts near to the return or bend and one bolt in the middle of the rear edge.

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I agree with everything said above.

This is not a well-made film.

While you're at it, check the opposite side.

Because of the pressures encountered at that location, the two bolt fitting is critical.

My brackets on both sides are welded.

When reaming to restructure the holes, new bolts and bushes are required.

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I've just lost my first response/comment on this; perhaps it's for the best, as it was a touch harsh! If the remainder of the construction quality is as poor as that, there will be a lot of work to do! Welding may present some difficulties as it appears that stainless steel is involved; no problem with the proper experience and equipment, but otherwise not simple!Is this vehicle IVA/MOT compliant? who truly constructed it? In my opinion, it requires demolition and reconstruction. I apologise if it's the error, and if you purchased it, the person who built it should be very concerned; this type of behaviour puts all kit car devotees in a poor position. Rant is far from over, but if I don't cease, I might get into profound caca.

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I tested the other side and everything appears fine, but I'll double-check.

If I had hit a hole or bump on the road, the bracket bolt would have come off.

The wishbone bolt is long enough, but as the nut came out, it began to come out.

I'll disassemble it and weld brackets.

 
 

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I've had this vehicle for three years now, however it's spent the most of that time in the garage due to issue after problem. Having said that, I've always worried whether the build quality was any good on it since it was my first kit car and I wasn't aware what to look for when I received it.

In 2007, the vehicle passed an IVA. I've already run it through two mots, and some points were picked up while it was mot.

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The car is a Superspec, so a portion of the suspension would have been assembled at the RH factory prior to sale; therefore, you cannot fault him unless the original fabricator altered the design.

 

Having said that, I have just been beneath mine and am unable to relate it to the image. Is it the front or back fastener of the lower wishbone (which, on my Superspec, is attached to the cross-box that houses the steering rack)?

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After 11 years, my bottom bracket broke due to movement. One of the problematic 5mm bolts that were put in had pulled out, letting the bracket to slide beneath the mot guys lever. A straightforward repair replaced the bolt pass.

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Made the front pivot suspension like this, with a single bolt going through this angle and down through the "L" part of the frame.

I drilled a second hole in mine and used a second bolt. This will at least stop the wheel from turning. Use bolts that are at least 8.8 mm long, and IVA requires that at least two holes show through lock nuts. You can weld this bracket, but you have to do it after the lower axle has been properly shimmied. This gap is different from car to car and even from side to side.
 

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