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It appears to be an issue with the exhaust or manifold; nonetheless, it would be advisable to inspect it further if you can access it on a ramp.

Additionally, here is the video.

I will attempt it and provide you with updates.

Uncertain about the location of the component, comments on that YouTube movie indicated that the issue is not exclusive to BMW; other owners have attempted solutions, and some individuals reported success.

From the bottom of the engine? Is it only when the temperature is warm?

I viewed a YouTube video suggesting that the ticking sound may originate from the hydraulic lifter. To alleviate the issue, one should start the engine and maintain it at 3000 rpm for three minutes; some claim this resolves the problem, making it worth attempting.

I have not yet inspected it; I need to elevate it up the ramp for examination. However, it is likely that this would produce a rattling noise at startup, correct? Is it not when the engine is warm?

Perhaps a minor fissure in the catalytic converter or manifold?

I am seeking assistance from anyone who can provide help. I possess a 2006 E90 M47 that produces a ticking noise when the vehicle reaches optimal temperatures. A few months ago, I operated my vehicle with low oil pressure, and a friend suggested that I might have caused low-end knock. However, after changing the oil and filter, we did not observe any metallic particles in the filter. Additionally, we placed four strong magnets underneath the oil during drainage and found no metal shavings. The ticking noise did not entirely correlate with the engine revs, leading us to conclude that it was due to chain slap. The vehicle just underwent maintenance, including the replacement of the timing chain, tensioner, water pump, steering pump, auxiliary belt, and all gaskets, approximately two weeks ago at a mileage of 165,000. However, the noise persists. We have also eliminated lifter tick, as it is only audible from the bottom of the engine, predominantly on the driver's side, and cannot be detected with the hood open. I have included a link to my YouTube video at the end of this post. Thank you for your assistance; I recently spent £2,000 to eliminate this sound and was informed by the garage that it was chain slap, which is quite frustrating. To be fair, the car drives well and accelerates smoothly, but I detest this noise. The most accurate description of the ticking sound is that, while idling, it produces a characteristic diesel tractor "duhduhduh" noise, with the ticking occurring in varying rhythms such as "tick.......tick tick......tick tick tick tick.............tick." However, upon revving the engine, the ticking sound synchronises with the vehicle's operation.

During the next service appointment with the dealer, enquire whether they are prepared to update all necessary firmware on the vehicle free of charge, as policies may vary among dealers. If unsuccessful, document the issue as a warranty claim; the dealer would likely upgrade the firmware on the pertinent ECU as an initial measure.

You have accurately identified the issue. I remotely secured the doors upon receiving a notification indicating they were unlocked. I will monitor this "feature" in the future.

The mirror fold feature intermittently deselects without apparent cause on the 2023 C300e, and the convenience opening function operates erratically.

Have you altered or transmitted any settings to the vehicle via the Mercedes me App? I have observed that this action occasionally results in unexpected modifications to the settings.

AMG 2024 GLC43 The automatic folding of the mirrors upon closing the doors has inexplicably ceased to function on two occasions. The auto mirror folding option has been disabled in the CAR MENU settings. Is this the outcome of an automated online MBUX update?

I initially proposed that to one of the mechanics working on the vehicle; however, he insisted on cleaning the heater core first, as he prefers not to replace components unnecessarily. Well, it is completed now.

I monitored the discussion until its conclusion to ascertain whether anyone proposed the water pump. Several years ago, my son's Galaxy exhibited same symptoms, prompting a local garage to attempt several solutions, similar to your approach, until I proposed that the water pump might have experienced a failure of the vanes from its plastic impeller. They initially dismissed my assertions, yet subsequently acknowledged my accuracy.

I have resolved the issue. Despite purging both heater matrices of the Vito and refilling the coolant using a vacuum pump system for £120, the issue persists. I changed the water pump, which appeared to resolve the issue. I appreciate everyone's assistance.

An air bubble can certainly precipitate this problem. Air is a less effective conductor of heat compared to the coolant fluid. Upon the arrival of the air bubble at the sensor, the temperature gauge will indicate a decrease.

A flush will substitute fluid for air. Eliminating the final reservoir of air can be somewhat challenging on certain cars. It is necessary to identify the system's highest point from where it can be bled and to confirm that it is indeed the highest point in the system. The final point may occasionally necessitate elevating the corner of the vehicle where the bleed point is situated. Uneven terrain can determine the success or failure of the undertaking.

It is the 2.1 Merc engine. Automated.

Is this the Renault engine from 2018?

I considered the possibility of an airlock; however, the coolant level has consistently remained adequate, and there have been no recent alterations that would precipitate an airlock, unless it is feasible for one to occur spontaneously. Nonetheless, I will conduct a comprehensive coolant flush to eliminate any airlock; I am uncertain about the complexity of the procedure, so it is prudent to entrust it to professionals. I will thereafter provide a report here.

A comparable incident occurred with my Ranger truck when the coolant level became too low owing to a loose hose clamp. I tightened the clamp and replenished the coolant, but the temperature fluctuated significantly. It was ultimately determined that a substantial airlock was present. Following adequate bleeding, regular service was restored.

Greetings, everyone! I am experiencing a perplexing problem with my 2018 Mercedes Vito Minibus W447. I have been experiencing random fluctuations in the temperature gauge. This weekend, I undertook an extensive 15-hour drive, and here are my observations. Temperature decline: When travelling at a constant pace of 70 mph or maintaining a consistent RPM, the temperature gauge will remain at the standard 90 degrees. However, when I attempt to activate the heater, it emits frigid air. Upon momentarily releasing the throttle or shifting into neutral on downhill gradients, the heater resumes heating, while the temperature gauge descends to just over 40 degrees and fluctuates between 40 and 80 degrees for approximately one minute. There will be a little fluctuation before stabilising around 80 degrees and ultimately reaching 90 degrees when I resume normal driving. The heater will remain warm for around 15 minutes, sufficient to provide warmth once more. The temperature rises: When travelling at a steady motorway pace (50-70 mph), the temperature gauge remains normal at 90 degrees; however, upon applying additional power, such as during overtaking or ascending a hill, the gauge exceeds 90 degrees. I would hear the fan activate. The amount of power applied, the incline of the slope, and the duration of power application will influence whether the temperature reaches 120 degrees or above. However, it will descend rapidly when I reduce the throttle. When the temperature exceeded 120 degrees on the freeway, I had a complete loss of throttle response; regardless of my actions with the throttle, the van did not respond and began to decelerate. I had to stop on the hard shoulder for a few seconds, and it was only after the temperature approached 90 degrees that I regained throttle control. I have replaced one thermostat, but it did not yield any improvement. I possess a Xentry device, and no fault codes are displayed. I lack mechanical expertise, hence I am unaware of what to observe. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.