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I recently encountered the same issue with my 2016 Mini Cooper S F56. The brown ground wire shorted and melted the clip connecting it to the rear light cluster. It also caused a malfunction in the light cluster. Replaced the light cluster, installed a new clip, and established a new ground connection.

I possess a comparable issue. The left turn signal and backup light are reported as nonfunctional; nevertheless, upon inspection, all bulbs illuminate. I have attempted to clear the code, but it reappears. It also indicates that my adaptive lights are defective, however their movement up and down is observable. I have adapted to the complaints; however, I am unable to reset functions such as oil changes since the warning persists and prevents me from clearing it to perform the reset. I suspect it is a computer issue. For a 2011 Mini, the expense of attempting resolution is not justified. I would sell the car if my wife did not cherish it so deeply!

The plastic around the bulb holder can be melted; new holders are available from BMW at a reasonable cost. Occasionally, the light unit itself may also be damaged. Additionally, instances of incorrect bulb types being used have been observed.

My R55 Clubman has exhibited a dashboard light problem in recent months, which I have traced to the left rear light cluster. The indicator primarily malfunctions, albeit it operates intermittently at times. Although it now sometimes also affects the brake light. I am unable to predict the efficacy of my indication. Indicates a defect in the light cluster rather than in the individual bulbs. Has anyone encountered a comparable experience?

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It is highly probable that the gearbox is the issue, as they are notoriously fragile.

I had it changed at a BMW dealership, with the cost covered by BMW; nonetheless, this issue predated the EGR repair.

I observed this in October 2025; however, it could be a defective EGR module. Last year, I encountered a comparable issue with my vehicle in Japan, which resulted in a recall being issued. Following the installation of a new component at BMW's expense, the issue was resolved and everything is functioning properly. If the issue persists, it may be prudent to investigate that matter.

It is a two-wheel drive.

Is it equipped with X-drive?

It appears to be a common failure of the Aisin gearbox. You may consider servicing the gearbox; however, I remain sceptical about a permanent resolution.

Greetings everyone, I possess a 2016 BMW 2 Series Gran Tourer with a 1.4L diesel engine and automatic gearbox, accommodating seven passengers. At low speeds (below 20 mph), particularly in stop-and-go traffic, the gearbox occasionally jerks violently, resembling the sensation of being struck from the front or rear. I have infrequently received a "Transmission too hot" warning, which dissipates within seconds. I had not seen it for six months; nonetheless, I encountered those individuals today when travelling through the town this afternoon. A BMW dealership reported that they conducted an inspection and found no apparent problems or warning codes. Another mechanic recommended a complete gearbox replacement, estimated at between £5,000 to £6,000, which seems like a significant increase. Has anyone encountered a similar situation or possess any insights regarding the potential cause? Your feedback is appreciated - thank you!

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That is the extent of my input; I believe you may need to operate a standalone ECU. Although it may be overly opaque, there are individuals proficient in SDS who could assist with coding. Best of luck; it appears to be an enjoyable transformation once initiated.

Thank you for your response. I have removed the antenna (bag) situated near the ignition switch, as well as the chip and the DAS module located behind the dashboard of the W140. Initially, I saw a "FAULT DAS" message; but, upon locating the precise DAS diagram, the issue vanished, enabling me to access and interpret engine trouble codes such as P0431.

Doesn't the W210 possess a formidable security system? The removal of the ignition switch and module remains ambiguous.

Greetings to all, I am undertaking an engine replacement project on my 1988 W124. I have added a 3.2L M104 petrol engine from a 1997 S-Class, which was originally equipped with an automatic gearbox. I installed the engine together with its ECU, the original wire harness (engine harness connected to connectors E and F of the ME2.0 ECU), and incorporated the DAS, baggage compartment, and key utilising this wiring diagram: Explanation of Pin Functions A2 +12V subsequent to ignition (KL15) Power supply for the ECU through the ignition relay B4 +12V battery (KL30) Permanent electrical supply (fuse) Grounding of A3, A7, and A8 oecus C40 BEGIN Signal initiation input D14 Park/Neutral Validation of automatic gearbox (must be energised to permit ignition) C29 Fuel Pump Relay ECU output regulates the fuel pump with a relay. F6 Coils Cylinder 3/4 Ignition Control for Cylinders 3 and 4 F13 Coils Cyl 2/5 Ignition control for cylinders two and five F20 Coils Cylinder 1/6 Ignition regulation for cylinders 1 and 6 E1, E2, E13, E14, E12n5je, and E12e6urs ECU provide grounding for the injectors, which share a common +12V supply. Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) for E37/E38 Crankshaft Camshaft Position Sensor (CAM) for E39/E40 Camshaft Position Signal E47 Mass Air Flow Meter E45 IAT - Intake Air Temperature E29 CLT Coolant Temperature Formula 1/Formula 2 Electronic Throttle Body (ETB) Electronic Throttle Regulation Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) for E31/E32/E33/E34 Throttle Position Sensors D7/D8 O2 Bank A Oxygen Sensor Signal and Ground C31/C32 O2 Bank B Oxygen Sensor Signal and Ground A5/B1 O2 Heater Supply for Lambda Sensors I successfully created the OBD port, enabling me to read error codes. I substituted the automated flywheel with a manual variant (60-2). However, I have been unable to initiate the engine thus far. I am encountering trouble code P0341. Upon further investigation, I discovered multiple discussions referencing a grounding issue. I have re-established all the ground connections; yet, the issue continues to remain. I have chosen to compose this message to solicit assistance. Does anyone possess any thoughts or recommendations for addressing this issue? Thank you in advance.

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I have successfully resolved it! The block connector connections on the aesthetically pleasing, although subpar quality, aftermarket headlamp components had begun to deteriorate. Several tips of the pins were really disintegrating. I connected the block and, after identifying several faulty lights, discovered that everything began functioning properly. The extensive hours of meticulous re-wiring yielded commendable results, undoubtedly! Aside from the expense of a batch of Scotch connectors, it was complimentary (quite atypical for my Z4)! Joyful days!

There is no evidence of combustion or thermal damage around the cluster connection or the terminal connector of the wire. Are there further earth connection points to verify, and if so, what are their locations?

Faulty bulb or grounding issue. Exchange the bulbs laterally to evaluate that component.

I disconnected the ground tracks in the light cluster and connected a line directly from the battery, thus the ground should be adequate.

What specific Earth fix did you implement?It appears like the back earth pin or wire has been burned or is burnt out.